Chateauneuf du Pape Deus Ex Machina 2012 Clos Saint Jean

Tasting Notes

Pouring the 2012 Deus Ex Machina, the first thing you notice is the mourvedre. Wild herbs, crushed olives, hints of garrigue and something savory, almost meaty. Then there's an old vine Grenache with notes of kirsch, raspberry liqueur and warm stone. The flavor is dense but not heavy. The tannins are firm and fine-grained, framed by the acidity of the 2012. Long peppery finish. Drinkable with air, but still firm.

Grape Varieties

The blend is approx.

• 60% Grenache, from century-old vines on the plateau of La Crau.
• 40% Mourvedre, from the sandy part of the estate.

The proportion of Mourvedre is high for Chateauneuf, in most blends it does not exceed 20%. So why exactly is Mourvedre used? Grenache brings sweetness, alcohol and red fruits. Mourvèdre pulls in the other direction: structure, dark spices and a savory note.

Cellaring Potential

Deus ex Machina 2012 should be drunk from now until about 2035. Mourvèdre's tannins are still powerful, and the acidity of this cool vintage gives it a longer finish than the 2009 or 2010; store at 12-14°C. With aging, notes of kirsch move into leather, truffle and dried herbs.

The Producer

Until 2002, Clos Saint Jean was a quiet family estate. It was then that brothers Pascal and Vincent Maurel became its owners and invited oenologist Philippe Cambie to join them. The changes were drastic. Yields were reduced, harvesting was delayed, fruit selection was intensified, and suddenly Clos Saint-Jean was on par with the best wines of the appellation. The vines themselves are no secret. But it took Maurel and Cambie to transform this terroir into the Deus Ex Machina wine. We consider them one of the most consistent modern producers in the Southern Rhône.

Terroir & Climate

La Crau is a plateau east of Châteauneuf-du-Pape where the Deus Ex Machina Grenache grows. The surface is covered with galets roulés (quartzite pebbles polished by the ancient Rhone). Underneath is red soil and sand. Why it's important. The pebbles absorb heat during the day and release it at night, allowing the thick-skinned Grenache to fully ripen. The red soil retains moisture, so old vines don't shut down even in hot summers. Mourvèdre is grown in the adjacent sandy sector, which gives it more lift and aromatic detail.

Winemaking

This separation is intentional. Grenache is fermented and aged in concrete tanks, oak is not used. Why. The concrete preserves the purity of the fruit and allows the Grenache to show its raspberry and spice notes without the interference of vanilla. Mourvedre, on the other hand, is aged in barriques and 600-liter demi-muids. The aging period is approximately 12 months. The grapes are hand-picked and the growing methods are organic. No new oak is used and no additives are used.

Food Pairing

This wine makes you want some fat and herbs. Taste:

• Boar cooked over low heat with juniper and laurel
• Roast lamb thigh with herbs of Provence.
• Daube provençale, a traditional beef stew from the Rhone region.
• Aged Comté or dry sheep cheese

Mourvèdre needs fat and protein to balance its tannins. Serve at 16-17°C and decant for at least an hour. Older bottles require less air.