La Landonne

The Producer

Guigal is of high importance to the Côte Rôtie. Not just in numbers, but in influence. Etienne Guigal worked at Vidal Fleury for 15 years before founding the house in 1946 (Vidal Fleury was later bought by Guigal in 1984), he was succeeded by his son Marcel in 1961, and in the 1980s Robert Parker discovered La La wines, Guigal and the appellation became internationally renowned.

Today, Marcel works alongside his son Philippe, who trained as an oenologist in Burgundy and joined the winery in 1997. Three generations, one village. Best of Wine considers Guigal a point of reference.

History & Heritage

The first vintage of Guigal in La Landonne was harvested in 1978, and its release meant something new. Marcel Guigal decided to bottle the wines of the individual lieux-dits separately, betting that single vineyard Côte Rotie would rival the great wines of Burgundy and the northern Medoc.

He turned out to be right: less than a decade later, Robert Parker tasted the wines and gave them his endorsement as world-class wines. This recognition restored the reputation of Côte Rotie, which had previously been in the shadow of Hermitage. The decision to use 100% new oak and age the wine for over 40 months was radical at the time and remains unusual today. For La Landonne buyers, it means that the wine was made to age from the start, with a track record of over 40 years.

Grape Varieties

The blending of La Landonne is characterized by simplicity:

100% Syrah.

That's the whole point. Côte-Rôtie law allows viognier to be cofermented with 20% Syrah, and most producers add at least a little. Guigal's La Mouline has 11% viognier, and La Turque has about 5%. La Landonne does not add viognier. Why, because the iron-rich Côte Brune shale produces Syrah, which is itself quite dense and structured. Adding viognier softens what should not be softened.

Winemaking

A decisive choice is élevage. La Landonne is aged in 100% new French oak barriques for about 42 months. That's three and a half years in new oak, which is twice the aging time of most First Growth Bordeaux. Does that sound excessive? Perhaps. But La Landonne's concentration is not suppressed by the oak, but rather absorbed by it.

Fermentation beforehand is lengthy, about three weeks in closed stainless steel tanks with regular pumpovers. The harvest for Guigal is late, often the last in the appellation, aiming to achieve phenolic ripeness. All barrels are made in Guigal's own workshop in Ampuis. They manage the wood from forest to bottling.

Tasting Notes

The first impression is always one of intensity. La Landonne pours almost black and the nose opens up in waves: olives, crushed blackberries, smoked meat, violets and characteristic iron and graphite notes driven by slate. A hint of black pepper is felt underneath, typical of the syrah of the northern Rhône.

In the mouth, a wall of fruit and tannins maintains tension. In youth, the tannins are firm and chewy, but subtle rather than coarse. With age, a savory tapenade reminiscent of leather and undergrowth emerges. The finish is long and mineral: younger vintages, such as the 2019 and 2021, need time; older vintages, such as the 2000, begin to show the mature, silky texture that La Landonne is known for.

Food Pairing

La Landonne's grip and savory depth tends to supplant oily and greasy flavors. Some points that work well:

• Juniper flavors of roasted venison, wild hare saddle and gibier echo the olive and leather character of the wine.
• The fat softens the tannins.
• Paired with truffle dishes, especially duck or lamb, the earthy notes harmonize in the middle.
• Mature hard cheeses such as Comté and Gruyere, salt and nutty flavors complement the wine's fruitiness.

Serve at 16-18°C. Below this temperature, the flavors close down.

Serving Suggestions

Serve at 16-18°C. Do not pull the cork at the table as most rooms are warmer. Decant young wines (2019, 2021) for at least 2 hr. Older vintages, such as 2000, should be handled more carefully: 30-45 min, watch for the appearance of sediment. A large Burgundy wine bowl is more suitable than a Bordeaux glass.

Vintages

La Landonne is remarkably consistent, but the style of the vintage does define the time frame: warm, ripe years like 2019 produce wines with broad shoulders, dark fruit and tannins that feel almost plump despite their structure. Cooler or classic years tend to produce denser, more flavorful wines that require extended cellar aging before showing themselves; 2016 is a more structured type and should be given time to age; 2021 is still a young wine and is a cellar wine; 2023 is a cellar wine.

If you're drinking now, look for wines that are at least 15-20 years old; 2000 is for example just right. If you want to keep wine in the cellar, anything made in the last 10 years deserves patience. Older varieties tend to cost more, and justifiably so.

Cellaring Potential

La Landonne is made to age for 25-40 years from strong vintages. This wine has a lot going for it: dense Syrah tannins, high concentration, structural lift thanks to 42 months in new oak and iron-rich acidity from the Côte Brune schist. Recent vintages such as 2019 and 2021 should ideally be cellared until at least 2030. Over time, the oak flavors will blend and a third note such as leather, tapenade or forest floor will emerge.