Clos des Lambrays 2005 Domaine des Lambrays

Professional reviews

Robert Parker (92)

The 2005 Clos de Lambrays leads with hints of cedar and spruce resin (or is that actually ripe Pinot stems?), bitter-sweet florality, pungent spices, black tea, salt spray, iodine and Cote-Rotie-like smoked meats. Plum and cherry – with a strong dose of skins and pits -- almost come as an aromatic afterthought. A subtly bitter, tart edge follows the flowers, meat and minerals onto the palate and helps lend profile and pungent energy to the wine, which sticks tenaciously to the palate as if it were exactly the sort of resin suggested in its aroma. This is serious in a rather somber way, and the abundance of tannin and sheer density of this wine suggest one wait 6-8 years before peeking beneath another cork. But I strongly suggest it will make excellent old bones, so my score could easily mislead. (I find the peppery, spicy, highly satisfying 2004 very nearly as good today, not to mention more charming and a better bet for the short run.) The average age of vines is quite old, incidentally, but Brouin refuses to print “vieilles vignes” on the label because he insists (rightly) that these two unregulated words are grossly abused.

Winespectator (95)

A red of purity and suppleness. Reveals a dense core of cherry, spice and mineral aromas and flavors allied to a firm structure, while great energy propels this to a long, lingering aftertaste. A combination of power and finesse.