Wines from Clos de La Commaraine

Clos de la Commaraine

The purchase of the Clos de la Commaraine by Americans Denise Dupré and Mark Nunelly made headlines recently, so this visit with estate director Jean-Luc Vitoux, winemaker Charles Nebout and consultant Louis-Michel Liger-Belair. Long the property of Jaboulet-Vercherre, the fruit of this beautifully situated 3.75-hectare monopole has been sold to Louis Jadot since the 2002 vintage, but now ambitious plans are underfoot. This large, walled vineyard, insulated from outside influences, is ideally suited to organic and biodynamic farming—and will be now be worked accordingly. And Liger-Belair's longtime collaborator, soil scientist and geologist Pedro Parra, has visited to study the clos, which has now been divided into eight sub-plots along geological lines; plots that will be farmed and vinified separately. The 2018 vintage certainly bears Liger-Belair's signatures, with its supple tannins, delicate extraction and framing of toasty new oak, and the wine has turned out very well. I also had the opportunity to visit the château itself, for which there are similarly ambitious plans for a boutique hotel with swimming pool, spa and restaurant. The location is certainly idyllic, even if the scale of the renovation work is daunting, and there's no doubt that the development, when realized, will transform the sleepy village of Pommard.

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