Jean-Claude Ramonet
While Chassagne-Montrachet is brimming with excellent wineries, Ramonet is one of the special ones. Decanter has named it one of the most respected and most mysterious producers in Burgundy, and both assessments are well-founded.
The family's vineyard holdings span over 20 different appellations across Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, and throughout Côte de Beaune, with four Grand Cru wines stored in the cellar each year. The family has cultivated these vineyards for three generations, and currently, all wines bear the name Jean-Claude Ramonet on their labels, regardless of their origin.
The winemaking approach in the cellar reflects a simplicity far removed from current trends. The must undergoes almost no settling before fermentation, and new oak barrels are used sparingly. The resulting wines possess a rich, robust texture and tend to take several years to reveal their true potential.
The history
Pierre Ramonet (1906-1994) officially established this estate in 1930 and, four years later, purchased his first plot of vineyard land in Les Grandes Ruchottes, part of Chassagne-Montrachet. He had not inherited any wealth to start his business. Over the course of several decades, he purchased vineyards, planted grapevines, and gradually expanded his operations.
Raymond Baudoin, the founder of La Revue du Vin de France, who discovered this wine in the 1930s, played an important role. Baudoin passed this information on to Frank Schoonmaker, an American importer, and as a result, bottles of wine began shipping from France. During the postwar period, Pierre continued to acquire land, and his reputation grew accordingly.
The process of succession was not entirely smooth. Although son André was involved for a time, the winery was ultimately passed on to the next generation, Noël and Jean-Claude Ramonet, and is now firmly under the management of Jean-Claude.
The fourth generation is already involved in management. Michaël and Pierre-François, the sons of Noël, and Anne-France, the daughter of Jean-Claude, are all official members of the team.
The vineyards
Very few of the vineyards were acquired all at once. Montrachet itself was acquired in 1978. Chevalier-Montrachet was acquired about 20 years later through an exchange of vines with Domaine Chartron, rather than by purchase.
In the early 1990s, St-Aubin Le Charmois and additional Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru land were acquired. In 2011, the family acquired Bouzeron, allowing them to expand from Côte de Beaune into Côte Chalonnaise.
More recently, additional land has been acquired either through direct purchase under Jean-Claude Ramonet's own name or through contract farming. Clos des Caillerets, which previously belonged to Vincent Girardin, was also added in 2014 through this process. Since then, all vineyards, whether they originally belonged to Domaine Ramonet or were privately owned by Jean-Claude, have been released under the single Jean-Claude Ramonet label.
Despite the roll-call of Grand Cru names, this family's devotion to Chassagne-Montrachet's Premier Cru is clear. It is precisely these vineyards where Pierre laid the foundation for this estate.
The two classic varieties
Jean-Claude Ramonet works with the classic Burgundian pair, and the balance is heavily skewed to one side.
- Chardonnay: For Chassagne-Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault, Corton-Charlemagne, and Pernand-Vergelesses wines, as well as Grand Cru wines
- Pinot Noir: For Chassagne-Montrachet red wines; includes Clos de la Boudriotte and Clos St-Jean
Bouzeron, part of the Côte Chalonnaise was added in 2011, and slightly different from the other wines.
Little settling, not much new oak
There are two key decisions that characterize the production of white wine here. First, since the must undergoes almost no settling before fermentation, a significant amount of solids is carried over into the barrels. Second, with the exception of Le Montrachet, the use of new oak barrels is limited to about one-third.
The result is a distinctive texture. Ramonet white wines are full-bodied and weighty rather than smooth, and are notorious for being particularly difficult to handle in their youth. Upon opening the bottle, a menthol-like aroma is often detected, but it tends to fade when exposed to air; this is precisely why these wines have often been eliminated during the first round of blind tastings only to go on to win by the end of the evening.
The red wines receive unfairly less attention. The Pinot Noir, produced at this end of Côte de Beaune, is supposed to be lighter than the Côte de Nuits, but Ramonet's bottles continue to defy that expectation.
The wines
Chassagne-Montrachet's white wines are the centerpiece. Clos de Caillerets, Morgeot, and Les Vergers are all released as Premier Cru wines and are presented alongside Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, which showcases how Pinot Noir is made into wine in its home village.
At Jean-Claude Ramonet, Puligny-Montrachet Champs Canet is also produced.
Above all of these are the Grand Crus straddling Chassagne and Puligny: Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, and Chevalier-Montrachet. Since the entire lineup spans more than 20 appellations, the Ramonet wine list shows only a portion of the collection, not the whole.
Frequently asked questions
Is it Domaine Ramonet or Jean-Claude Ramonet?
Both names refer to the same family estate. Wines that once belonged to Domaine Ramonet and vineyards acquired or farmed in Jean-Claude's own name are now all labelled Jean-Claude Ramonet.
Who runs the estate today?
Jean-Claude Ramonet, the grandson of founder Pierre. Noël's sons Michaël and Pierre-François and Jean-Claude's daughter Anne-France work alongside him.
Where are the vineyards?
Mainly in Chassagne-Montrachet and the neighbouring villages of the Côte de Beaune, with Puligny, Meursault, St-Aubin, Corton-Charlemagne and Pernand-Vergelesses in the mix, plus Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise.
Why do the wines seem closed when young?
Very little settling before fermentation gives them a dense texture, and young bottles can show a menthol note that fades with air. Time in the cellar does the rest.
