Schoenenbourg Grand Cru 2004 Marcel Deiss
€ 152,40 (in Vat)
From a mosaic of small parcels in this gypsum-rich Grand Cru planted in the 1930s to Pinot Gris, Riesling (including “red” or “black” variants!), Gewurztraminer, Muscat, and Sylvaner, Deiss’ 2004 Schoenenbourg (or – as the label slightly pompously puts it – “Grand Vin de Schoenenbourg”) captivates with its extraordinary alliance of richness, elegance, and refinement. Diverse sweetly-scented flowers, candied citrus, tea, honey, and high-toned herbal distillates in the nose usher in a supremely unctuous yet ravishingly refined palate of liqueur-like concentrated sweetness, yet shot through with juicy citricity and suffused with crushed stone. Astonishingly penetrating, the finish here billows to the point of lift-off.
Winespectator / James Suckling (92)
A hint of peat smoke counterpoints rich flavors of candied apple, pineapple, mango and spice in this off-dry white, which shows a silky texture and a long, vanilla-laced finish, all enlivened by bright, tangy acidity. Roughly 70 percent Riesling, with Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Muscat.