Les conditions de croissance ont été chaudes et sèches, et la floraison ainsi que la véraison ayant commencé tôt, les raisins ont été récoltés à pleine maturité et en parfaite santé. Le botrytis, cette pourriture noble qui fait rétrécir les baies et concentre leur teneur en sucre, n’est apparu qu’après la mi-octobre, mais s’est ensuite propagé rapidement dans tout le vignoble. Il a fallu précipiter les vendanges. La chaleur du mois d’octobre était idéale pour un vin de vendanges tardives comme celui-ci.
La fermentation s’effectue en petites cuvées dans des fûts de chêne français, dont un tiers à 40 % sont neufs, suivie d’un élevage de 20 à 22 mois. Pour un millésime aussi mûr, une période d’élevage aussi longue joue un rôle majeur dans l’équilibre entre le sucre et l’acidité.
Il se dégustera de préférence entre 2028 et 2054. Servir frais, entre 8 et 10 °C.
Robert Parker (95)
Revealing a delicate, complex bouquet of spices, ripe apricot, pineapple, guava and mango, the 2022 Château Climens is showing well today and possesses a medium to full-bodied, tense and layered palate, a fleshy, delicate core of fruit enhanced by bright acids and a delicate, ethereal finish with notes of apricot and orchard fruits. This has a pH of 4.1 and 141 grams per liter of residual sugar. As usual, this estate produced a tense and elegant Barsac that is especially attractive this vintage. It should age gracefully over the next two decades and more.
Winespectator (94)
An enticing white, with lively notes of graham cracker, pie crust and ginger tossed in with glazed pear, clove-studded orange and apricot flavors. The deliciously unctuous finish offers lingering hints of bitter almond and green tea.
James Suckling (96)
Quite a deep color here. Not initially pronounced, rather reticent, this wine is seductive and complex. Expect subtle saffron, wax, minerals, rosemary, pumpkin seeds and roasted sweet potatoes. Lush and concentrated. The sweetness merges with a touch of bitter herbs and salted caramel gliding through the sleek finish. This year, the freshness comes more from phenolics than acidity. Decant to drink now but better to hold.
Vinous (96)
The 2022 Climens shows better now than at the Southwold tasting. There are fewer of those petrol scents noted just a few weeks back and more purity with touches of yellow flowers, lemon curd and saffron aromas delivered with fine delineation. The palate is well balanced with a smooth texture and notes of dried honey, vanilla pod and a hint of nougat. Its richness is countered by a silver thread of acidity. This is much more like it! What a superb Climens.
Falstaff (96)
Light golden yellow colour with silver reflections. Candied orange zest, ripe peach, a hint of apricot confit, fine botrytis touch, a hint of honey, inviting bouquet. Complex, powerful, fine ripe stone fruit nuances, delicate hint of lychee, good acidity, vivid sweetness on the finish, shows length and good ageing potential, will certainly benefit from ten to fifteen years of ageing.
