Drei Anbaugebiete liefern die Trauben für diesen Wein: Tasmanien, Tumbarumba und die Adelaide Hills – allesamt Chardonnay, die alle in den 2018er „Yattarna“ von Penfolds in Südaustralien verschnitten wurden.
Die Trauben wurden in allen drei Regionen ohne größere Probleme geerntet, obwohl der Ertrag etwas geringer ausfiel als 2017. In den Adelaide Hills lag der Fruchtansatz leicht über dem Durchschnitt, und die Vegetationsperiode endete unter warmen Bedingungen; im Gegensatz dazu gab es in Tumbarumba bis in den Dezember hinein reichlich Niederschläge, gefolgt von einer Trockenperiode, während im Februar anhaltend kühles Wetter herrschte.
Er reifte 8 Monate lang in französischen Eichen-Barriques (kleinen französischen Eichenfässern), von denen 60 % neu und der Rest ein Jahr alt waren. Er durchlief einen kurzen und zurückhaltenden Reifungsprozess, was zu hellen Zitronenaromen, Noten von Schotter und subtilen Anklängen von Mandeln führte.
Yattarna wurde 1998 mit dem Jahrgang 1995 auf den Markt gebracht. Er lässt sich bereits jetzt nach dem Dekantieren genießen, erreicht seinen Höhepunkt jedoch bis 2045.
Robert Parker (98)
The 2018 Yattarna Chardonnay leads with marzipan and apple skins, white pepper, scratched citrus, crushed shells, saffron and sugared almonds. In the mouth, the wine is insanely silken and composed, like carded fleece, and the length of flavor feels interminable. This has aged what feels like about three seconds—it is timeless, ageless, restrained and long. Wow. If you can drink these wines from this age window and onward, you will be doing yourself the greatest service. This is a first-rate Chardonnay. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
James Suckling (96)
A blend of Tasmania, Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills fruit, this has an intense, stony and mineral freshness with a flinty edge and a wealth of lemon sherbet, white peaches and crushed stones on the nose. Oak is deeply buried. The palate has such striking and intense depth. It’s layered and long and really asserts itself as the most complex and most powerful chardonnay in this release. The depth and pristine grade of fruit here are impressive. Deep, pithy finish.
Jancis Robinson (18)
Launched in 1998 with the 1995 vintage, Yattarna is the result of one of the most comprehensive, focused and highly publicised wine development projects ever conducted in Australia. The aspiration and independence of mind across generations of Penfolds winemakers inspired the ambition to create a white wine that would set the standard for ultra-fine Australian Chardonnay, a sortof 'White Grange'. They aim to source and select only the very best Chardonnay fruit from cool-climate regions, in this case Tasmania, Tumbarumba, Adelaide Hills. The name Yattarna is drawn from local indigenous language, meaning ‘little by little, gradually’. Acidity 7.3 g/l, pH 3.12. Aged for eight months in French oak barriques (60% new). All three regions enjoyed a relatively wet winter and spring, setting the vines up with healthy soil moisture profiles for the ensuing growing season. Tasmania experienced clear and generally warm conditions from January onwards, with no extreme heat spells leading into harvest. The temperature breached 35 °C only once in January, resulting in optimal conditions for ripening. Tumbarumba had plentiful rainfall right up to December, when a dry spell set in. In February, temperatures were generally cool allowing for slow, consistent ripening. The Adelaide Hills fruit set was slightly above average. The region experienced a warm finish to the growing season, but well-developed canopies shielded the fruit from adversity and ensured the berries ripened evenly. Harvest was an orderly affair across the three regions.
Fine, complex, really rather burgundian nose and great crystalline fruit and grip without austerity. The acidity level is really quite high compared with many other Chardonnays. Pretty smart. You would be very happy with this if labelled Puligny-Montrachet actually. Good stuff and it should have a long life but could be broached already.
Vinous (95)
Translucent gold. Vibrant, mineral- and lees-tinged citrus and orchard fruit aromas show fine clarity and hints of honeysuckle and iodine. Displays sharp definition on the palate, offering juicy Meyer lemon and pear skin flavors that show firm tension and back-end lift. The mineral quality repeats strongly on the impressively persistent finish, which leaves behind resonating and citrus fruit and floral notes.
Decanter (96)
Hugely expressie on the nose, so aromatic and flowing out the glass with lots of honey and caramel elements - citrus, toast, lemongrass, passionfruit, peach and pear with flint and graphite. Bright and focussed, this is so energetic and weighty, full of flavour - lemon and lime, grapefruit, passion fruit and touches of orange blossom/fleur d'orange. Loses a bit of impact towards the finish but this starts off well but I do like the almost minty fresh aspect at the end. Great acidity and lean straight core. Not the most accessible right now as it still has some tension but it's very good.
Wine Enthusiast (95)
This is an excellent bottling of Penfolds's most premium Chard. It offers drinkability now with the promise of a long life ahead. Always a polished, rich style, this vintage deftly balances the barrel and lees characters of oyster shell and nougat with notes of fresh lemon and peach. The palate is linear and focused with a lovely lift of saline acidity, chalky texture and a long salt-and-lemon finish.
