Vilmart

Vilmart & Cie is one of the most respected champagne houses, located in the village of Rilly-la-Montagne on the northern slopes of the Montagne de Reims. The wines are made from grapes grown in the family’s own vineyards, fermented and aged in oak barrels, and are rightly considered among the finest champagnes in the world.

History

The estate was founded in 1890 by Désiré Vilmart. It passed to his son Charles, and then to his grandson René, who restored the estate following the destruction suffered during the Second World War. Today, the estate is in the hands of the fifth generation and is managed by Laurent Champ, who took over from his father René in the early 1990s. Laurent has preserved the family’s long-standing tradition of vinifying all wines in oak barrels, and under his leadership the estate has transitioned to organic viticulture without the use of herbicides, chemical fertilisers or insecticides.

The estate is certified to the Ampélos and Haute Valeur Environnementale standards.

Vineyards and terroir

Vilmart cultivates 11 hectares of vineyards, all of which are classified as Premier Cru, mainly in Rilly-la-Montagne, with a few plots in neighbouring Villers-Allerand. Most of the villages on this side of Montagne face north, but Vilmart’s finest plot, Les Blanches Voies, is situated on the southern slope of the hill on the other side of the village, ensuring better ripening. Another key plot is Hautes Grèves, which faces south-west.

The soils consist of a mixture of chalk with a topsoil layer, typical of Champagne, and the average age of the vines is around 35 years, with the oldest vines reaching 60 years and being ungrafted in some parts of Les Blanches Voies.

Grapes

The blend of varieties is unusual for the Montagne de Reims: around 60 per cent Chardonnay, 36 per cent Pinot Noir and 4 per cent Pinot-Meunier. Most houses in this area rely much more heavily on Pinot Noir, so the emphasis on Chardonnay is one of the features that sets Villermart apart.

Winemaking

All wines are fermented and aged in oak. Non-vintage cuvées are placed in large foudres ranging from 2,200 to 5,500 litres, whilst vintage wines are aged in smaller 225-litre barriques and 600-litre demi-muids. Malolactic fermentation is halted across the entire range to ensure the wines remain fresh and lively. Before disgorgement, the wines are aged on their lees for a long time in the cellars, and the dosage remains fairly low.

Wines

The range is headed by the non-vintage Grand Cellier, a blend comprising approximately 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from several vintages.

One step above is the Grand Cellier d'Or, which bears the vintage year, and at the top is the Coeur de Cuvée, made from grapes grown on the oldest vines in Blanche-Voie and aged on the lees for around seven years.

A single-varietal Blanc de Blancs called Blanches Voies has recently been added to the range.

Total production stands at around 8,500 cases per year, and the house style combines a mature, creamy depth, achieved through oak ageing, with a lively acidity, which is achieved by omitting malolactic fermentation.