2023 was a year of bountiful harvests in the Côte de Beaune region. In some areas, the Chardonnay harvest began toward the end of August, and by mid-September, the harvest of grapes for white wine was largely complete. Following a rainy summer, warm and dry weather persisted into the latter part of the season, causing the grapes to ripen rapidly, which made the sorting process critical. Girardin sorts twice: once in the vineyard and once at the winery.
The result is a Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru that features aromas of ripe orchard fruit rather than heavy tropical fruit notes, along with a chalky texture and a subtle saltiness. While it can be enjoyed wonderfully as a young wine, it also possesses the structure to age well. It is best enjoyed between 2026 and 2042.
Vinous (94)
The 2023 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeots 1er Cru has one of my favorite aromatics from Girardin, with hazelnut, almond and citrus fruit aromas unfolding in the glass. This has fine focus. The palate is well balanced with impressive tension on the entry, hints of sour lemon and orange rind toward the composed finish. This is worth seeking out (just like last year)!
Burghound (92)
A whiff of phenolic character (think olive oil nuances) is present on the lightly oaked floral-suffused aromas of petrol, rosemary oil and white and yellow orchard fruit. As one would expect, there is more volume to the bigger-bodied, suave and seductively textured flavors that are at once generous but powerful, all wrapped in sappy, balanced and lingering finale that is borderline tannic.
Jasper Morris (94)
From Les Fairendes, vines managed by the Vincent Girardin team. Elegant by Morgeot standards, but then it is from Fairendes, all in white fruit, not massive and not overly sunny, very well managed Drink from 2029-2034.
