Marpaout
One of the most remarkable new wines we have tasted this year (and crafted by a fellow) Dutchman: Marpaout.
A rare, 100% Merlot from the Left Bank of Bordeaux, capable of rivaling the greatest Merlots of the Right Bank.
Marpaout is the creation of Arjen Pen, a Dutchman whose career began in the aviation industry. After holding senior positions at KLM and Lufthansa, he became Vice President of Swiss Air at just 32. Driven by his passion for wine, he made a life-changing decision: he left his executive career behind and purchased a wine estate in France to become a winemaker. Within a few years, he sold that first estate and became co-owner and winemaker at Château Branas Grand Poujeaux.
As winemaker, Arjen works closely with Hubert de Boüard, owner of Château Angélus. Together they identified a parcel that consistently stood out in quality and complexity: a 1.7-hectare vineyard located between Margaux and Saint-Julien, named Marpaout.
A detailed soil study revealed the secret behind its excellence. The vineyard, perched 25 metres above sea level, lies on Bordeaux’s famed Terrace 3, where Garonne gravel and humus intermingle with clay. Beneath lies a three-metre-deep gravel layer rich in ‘crasse de fer’ (oxidised iron) the same geological feature that defines the great wines of Pomerol, including Pétrus.
In 2022, Arjen and Hubert decided to vinify the vineyard separately. The wine aged for twelve months in new French oak, followed by another year in a 750-litre Tava amphora. The amphora’s gentle micro-oxidation allowed the tannins and oak to integrate seamlessly while preserving the purity and freshness of the wine.
For years, Pen wondered whether Marpaout should be bottled on its own. The answer came from Bordeaux itself.
Hubert de Boüard was the first to recognise its uniqueness: “This Merlot is from another planet. Even Angélus would envy this fruit.”
Encouragement grew when Jacques Thienpont, the legendary winemaker of Le Pin, tasted the wine and simply said: “This wine must be made.”
Even the Left Bank took notice – Thomas Burke, Master Sommelier at Château Margaux, compared Marpaout favourably to his own wines.
The ultimate test came at an exclusive event in Dubai, where Marpaout was poured alongside icons such as Pétrus, Angélus, and Masseto. To Arjen’s astonishment, it was voted Wine of the Night, and within hours, the entire allocation for the Middle East and Asia had sold out.
With 98 points from Falstaff and The Drinks Business, Marpaout has firmly established itself among the greats of Bordeaux.
Only 900 bottles and 50 magnums were produced for the first release, Marpaout 2022. The wine will only be made in exceptional vintages, there will be no 2023 or 2024. The 2025 vintage has just been harvested and may be the next release, but one thing is certain: these are the only bottles that will hit the market before 2028.
