Ermitage Le Méal Rouge 1998 is a single-vineyard Syrah produced on the Hermitage hill in the northern Rhône, and it has a particularly intense flavor among this winery's lineup. Le Méal is part of the Sélections Parcellaires series, a line of single-vineyard wines introduced by Michel Chapoutier to highlight the unique characteristics of each vineyard. This wine is notable for its density. Aromas of dark fruit, black pepper, olives, and leather blend harmoniously, revealing a robust structure derived from very old vines and low yields.
The 1998 vintage in the northern region of Rhône, produced red wines with concentrated flavors and a robust structure rather than wines meant for early drinking. This suits Le Méal, which tends to be the broadest and most muscular of Chapoutier's Hermitage plots, particularly well.
Biodynamic farming was already in practice at the time; Chapoutier had been practicing it since 1991. Natural yeasts were used, and clarification and filtration processes were kept to a minimum.
And it is precisely that rugged texture that is the essence of this wine. The 1998 vintage of Ermitage Le Méal Rouge rewards those with patience, still offering rich fruit aromas even in older bottles. It is best enjoyed by 2045.
Robert Parker (95)
Compared to the 1999, the 1998 Ermitage le Meal seamed slightly one-dimensional on the nose and left me craving a touch more complexity. However, it made up for it on the palate and was more expansive and opulent, with full-bodied richness, terrific concentration and a surprising amount of tannic grip that came through on the blockbuster finish. Showing classic Hermitage notes of beef blood, currants, smoked earth and licorice, drink this rich, fabulously textured 1998 over the coming 2-3 decades.
Jancis Robinson (17.50)
Dark crimson. Slightly dull nose but good. Convincing, vibrant if slightly dry fruit on the palate. Dry, insistent tannins. But confidence. Rather old-fashioned and brutal in structure. But no shortage of personality. One of the old school? At least there is some confidence here for long-term drinking… Jancis Robinson
