| Classification | Cru Classe |
| Type | White |
| Producer | Didier Dagueneau |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire |
| Appellation | Pouilly-Fume |
| Grape | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Volume | 0,75 |
| Condition | Perfect |
| Label | Perfect |
| Stock | 0 |
The 2017 growing season in the Central Loire was brutal: a severe frost in April destroyed most of the harvest in Pouilly-Fumé and Sancerre, and Dagueneau was not spared. This was followed by a warm, dry summer and an early harvest. For Silex, this meant a small, concentrated harvest of fruit from old vine Sauvignon Blanc on the siliceous soils atop Saint-Andelain. A serious bottle from a short year.
The nose starts with smoke and stabbed flint, a classic silex, with grapefruit skin, white peach and a salty edge underneath. On the palate, the 2017 is characterized by density. The concentration of the short vintage shows up in density rather than weight. Aging in oak barrels imparts a creamy texture that envelops the acidity. The finish is long, salty and almost chalky. Still young and intense. Needs air.
Silex is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. It is neither a blending partner nor a softener. So why is this bottle not similar in flavor to wines like Marlborough Sauvignon? The answer lies in the silex (flint) soil at the top of Saint-Andelain hill: in 2017, the yields were reduced due to April frosts, so the concentration resulted in stronger than usual smoky, salty, flinty notes.
Best between 2025 and 2035, with the best period between 2028 and 2032. Flint soil acidity and minerals underpin this wine, and 2017 has enough concentration to keep it at 12-14°C. Expect the smoky notes to deepen with age and the fruit to take on a waxy hue.
Twelve hectares in Pouilly-Fumé. Didier Dagueneau built the estate from scratch in 1982, starting with 1.2 hectares in En-Chaille, and he was among the first in the region to ferment and age Sauvignon Blanc in oak, using it for texture rather than aroma. Yields sit at 50 to 75 per cent of what neighbours pick. Soils are still sometimes ploughed by horse, and harvesting is done by hand in several passes. Since his death in 2008, son Louis-Benjamin and daughter Charlotte have run things, and in 2018 they dropped the appellation and labelled the wines Vin de France. Plot by plot: Silex, Pur Sang, Buisson Renard, Astéroïde. But the Jurançon sweet wine Les Jardins de Babylone is the exception, made from Petit Manseng.
The name Silex derives from the soil found at the summit of Saint-Andelain Hill, located in Pouilly-Fumé. This soil consists of silica mixed with clay. Because flint soil drains quickly, the vines are never waterlogged, and ploughing, sometimes done with a horse, allows the roots to grow deep. The vines here are between 60 and 90 years old. The smoky aroma and the sharp edge in the wine, reminiscent of striking a match, stem not from any winemaking technique, but directly from this unique combination of factors.
Oak barrels were an element that had virtually no tradition in this region. Dagueneau borrowed the idea from Burgundy, but uses oak barrels not to impart aroma, but rather to enhance texture and promote contact with the lees. They use 320-liter cigar-shaped casks and 600-liter foudres (large oak barrels). Silex is aged with its lees for about 12 months without racking, then aged for several more months in tanks before bottling. Only indigenous yeasts are used, and no sugar is added nor acidity adjusted. Harvesting is done by hand in several passes, selecting only fully ripe fruit.
Serve with charcoal-grilled sea bass or dorade, garnished with lemon. It also pairs exceptionally well with octopus, as the wine's saltiness harmonizes beautifully with that of the dish. Crottin de Chavignol (a local goat cheese) is a classic pairing and remains one of the best combinations. If you're looking for something simpler, grilled shrimp is highly recommended.
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