| Classification | Cru Classe |
| Type | White |
| Producer | Didier Dagueneau |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire |
| Appellation | Pouilly-Fume |
| Grape | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Volume | 0,75 |
| Condition | Perfect |
| Label | Perfect |
| Stock | 0 |
The 2012 growing season in the Loire was a challenging one. A cold spring, hail and mildew resulted in low yields and a late harvest in Pouilly-Fumé. For Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, who manages the estate built by his father, the positives of this vintage are the classic profile, and the 2012 Pur Sang reflects that. This wine is dense and supple rather than rich.
Medium greenish-yellow with silver highlights. Delicate white stone fruit notes underlie herbal spice, dark minerality, a hint of orange zest, and notes of grapefruit. Complex, juicy vineyard peach, Riesling-like structure, lemony finish, good length, hints of blossom honey on the aftertaste, and excellent aging potential.
First smoke and flint, then grapefruit zest, white peach and a savory nose, somewhere between chamomile and crushed oyster shell. On the palate - the 2012 showed real acidity, but here it comes across as drive rather than harshness, supported by a creamy texture resulting from long maturation in 600-liter demi-muids. The finish is long, salty and dry. This is Pur Sang in a nervous mood.
The Pur Sang is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. So why only Sauvignon Blanc? Because Dagueneau treats Sauvignon Blanc more like a Burgundy white wine than a Loire bistro white wine. The Pur Sang site sits on flint (silex) mixed with Kimmeridgian clayey limestone. This combination gives the wine a smoky flavor and a broader, more textured middle than the lighter Blanc Fumé.
The 2012 Pur Sang can be drunk from now until about 2028. The acidity still supports the wine, and the flint character tends to deepen with age in bottle; store at 12-14°C. Citrus notes wane and are replaced by honeyed, waxy notes.
Didier Dagueneau spent 25 years turning Pouilly-Fumé upside down and applying the Burgundian technique to Sauvignon Blanc. After he died in a plane crash in 2008, his son Louis-Benjamin took over the farm at age 26. And the results speak for themselves. Louis-Benjamin inherited his father's uncompromising approach: yields 50-75% lower than neighboring estates, multiple hand-picking and oak fermentation of his controversial Sauvignon Blanc In 2018, he reclassified the estate's wines as Vin de France, another provocative move, abandoning the appellation system altogether. This estate is integral to understanding what Sauvignon Blanc can achieve.
La Folie sits on deep clay soils mixed with limestone, not at all like the famous silex flint soils responsible for Pouilly-Fumé's smoky reputation. Why it matters. In the Loire's continental climate, the clay soils retain moisture even during dry periods, so the vines don't close up during the summer heat. This gives the wines a richer texture and less pungent minerality than with pure flint. The diversity of soil types in Saint-Andelain is also why Dagueneau treats each plot as a stand-alone wine, rather than blending raw materials. The Loire River moderates the region's temperature and creates a morning mist that extends the ripening period.
Dagueneau was a pioneer in fermenting Sauvignon Blanc in oak barrels on the Loire. However, there is a fundamental difference here. They use barrels for texture and leach contact, not for flavor. Only wild yeast is used, with no acidification or added sugar. Fermentation takes place in different sized barrels, including the distinctive cigar-shaped 320-liter barrels and larger 600-liter foudres (large wooden vats). The wine is aged on the lees for 12 months without stirring, which gives it an immediately recognizable creamy texture. It is then aged in tanks for several months before bottling to allow all the components to integrate. Louis-Benjamin continues to experiment with packaging, such as ceramic or glass, but the basic philosophy remains the same.
The mineral backbone and bright acidity of this wine make it an ideal pairing for Loire river fish - pike, perch (simply grilled with herbs). But the classic combination is the following: local goat cheese, Crottin de Chavignol. The texture of the wine matches the creaminess of the cheese, and the acidity cuts through the fat. The wine's subtle smoky flavor matches the brine. If you want to cook something more authentic, try baked chicken with tarragon or asparagus with hollandaise sauce. The key is to make a dish that won't lose out to the elegant mineral backbone of the wine. Chill to 10-12°C to preserve freshness, or serve at room temperature to open up the flavors.
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