| Classification | Cru Classe |
| Type | White |
| Producer | Didier Dagueneau |
| Vintage | 2012 |
| Country | France |
| Region | Loire |
| Appellation | Pouilly-Fume |
| Grape | Sauvignon Blanc |
| Volume | 0,75 |
| Condition | Perfect |
| Label | Perfect |
| Stock | 0 |
The 2012 growing season in the Loire was a challenging one. A cold spring, hail and mildew resulted in low yields and a late harvest in Pouilly-Fumé. For Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, who manages the estate built by his father, the positives of this vintage are the classic profile, and the 2012 Pur Sang reflects that. This wine is dense and supple rather than rich.
Medium greenish-yellow with silver highlights. Delicate white stone fruit notes underlie herbal spice, dark minerality, a hint of orange zest, and notes of grapefruit. Complex, juicy vineyard peach, Riesling-like structure, lemony finish, good length, hints of blossom honey on the aftertaste, and excellent aging potential.
First smoke and flint, then grapefruit zest, white peach and a savory nose, somewhere between chamomile and crushed oyster shell. On the palate - the 2012 showed real acidity, but here it comes across as drive rather than harshness, supported by a creamy texture resulting from long maturation in 600-liter demi-muids. The finish is long, salty and dry. This is Pur Sang in a nervous mood.
The Pur Sang is 100% Sauvignon Blanc. So why only Sauvignon Blanc? Because Dagueneau treats Sauvignon Blanc more like a Burgundy white wine than a Loire bistro white wine. The Pur Sang site sits on flint (silex) mixed with Kimmeridgian clayey limestone. This combination gives the wine a smoky flavor and a broader, more textured middle than the lighter Blanc Fumé.
The 2012 Pur Sang can be drunk from now until about 2028. The acidity still supports the wine, and the flint character tends to deepen with age in bottle; store at 12-14°C. Citrus notes wane and are replaced by honeyed, waxy notes.
Twelve hectares in Pouilly-Fumé. Didier Dagueneau built the estate from scratch in 1982, starting with 1.2 hectares in En-Chaille, and he was among the first in the region to ferment and age Sauvignon Blanc in oak, using it for texture rather than aroma. Yields sit at 50 to 75 per cent of what neighbours pick. Soils are still sometimes ploughed by horse, and harvesting is done by hand in several passes. Since his death in 2008, son Louis-Benjamin and daughter Charlotte have run things, and in 2018 they dropped the appellation and labelled the wines Vin de France. Plot by plot: Silex, Pur Sang, Buisson Renard, Astéroïde. But the Jurançon sweet wine Les Jardins de Babylone is the exception, made from Petit Manseng.
Pur Sang is primarily produced in La Folie, where the soil consists of deep clay layers mixed with limestone, unlike the silex (silica-rich flint) found on the upper slopes of Saint-Andelain. Because clay retains moisture well, the vines can grow steadily even during dry periods, which translates into a rich, voluptuous texture on the palate. The limestone provides the backbone of the wine's acidity. The semi-continental climate of the Centre-Loire, marked by cold winters and hot summers, completes the picture.
Dagueneau ferments using only native yeasts, without any adjustment of acidity or addition of sugar. Here, oak barrels are used to enhance texture rather than flavor; the winery primarily uses 320-liter cigar-shaped barrels, which lend Pur Sang a creamy body without any vanilla notes. It is aged on the lees for about 12 months, followed by several more months of aging in tanks before bottling. The fruit is harvested by hand in multiple passes, and yields are kept significantly lower than those of neighboring farms.
Salt and smoky notes are at the heart of this wine. When paired with grilled sea bass or sea bream, the mineral flavors harmonize beautifully with the charred aromas. For octopus, cook it slowly and then lightly sear the surface. It also pairs well with Crottin de Chavignol, a local specialty goat cheese, as the wine's acidity cuts cleanly through the cheese's chalky fat. It's also excellent with grilled shrimp and lemon.
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