The Viognier grapes are planted on a slightly less than 4 hectacre, south-facing, amphitheater-shaped plot located in the northern part of the Rhône; this is Château Grillet. The 2020 vintage yielded 6,900 bottles; the grapes were harvested between the 26th and 31st of August, with a yield of 32 hl per hectare.
This early harvest date reflects the climatic conditions of that year. While April and May received ample rainfall, the northern and southern regions of the Rhône became hot and extremely dry as summer progressed. The vines' growing season began early and ended early, and these characteristics are evident in the wine. While it feels concentrated, the flavor is balanced rather than heavy.
Fermentation took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and malolactic fermentation was carried out in either tanks or oak barrels depending on the vineyard block. The wine was aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (20% of which are new). The wine is imbued with just the right amount of oak to add a solid structure without masking the fruit aromas.
The grapes are grown using biodynamic methods. This vineyard is owned by François Pinault and managed by Frédéric Engerer.
It is perfectly drinkable now, but its firm texture will soften with a few years of aging. If opening a young bottle, decanting for about an hour is recommended. It is best enjoyed through 2036.
James Suckling (94)
A powerful and concentrated viognier with a lot of mineral character. Stacks of ripe apricot are married to full fine tannins on the very well-balanced palate. Just a hint of vanilla oak. Long finish with delicate bitterness. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
Vinous (98)
The 2020 Château-Grillet knocks it out of the park. Vinified from just-ripe fruit harvested between the 26th and 31st of August, it dazzles with outstanding purity and complexity. Fragrant linden blossom, chamomile and saffron mingle with white peach, apricot and cedar. Less oily and more delicate than in 2019, the 2020 Château-Grillet is built on finesse and intensity rather than power. Finely nuanced lemon peel, jasmine, melon and nutty hints add further layers to the delicious palate. The quintessential 2020 closes with an enticing phenolic grip on the lingering finish. 6,900 bottles produced.
Decanter (95)
With 10% new oak, it’s more noticeable here than on the Condrieu, but this should settle - the score assumes that it will. Rounded, with a touch of bubblegum to the jasmine and coconut notes. Distinctly more saline than the other two wines in the range. Its long finish is full of oak spice. With good concentration, it’s voluminous but not heavy and has less alcohol than in recent years, making for a nicely balanced vintage. Doesn't have the concentration and intensity of some recent vintages, but it’s a very drinkable vintage of Château-Grillet.
