Monfortino

The Producer

Most Barolo producers changed their policies in the 1980s. Shorter maceration, French barriques, riper fruit. Giacomo Conterno did not. Why it matters. While the modernists chased softer, more precocious wines, the Conterno family continued to do what it had always done, and now its wines are more relevant than ever.

Today, the estate is run by Roberto Conterno. After the death of his father Giovanni, he took over the domaine in 2004 and has carefully expanded it, adding Cerretta and Arione to Serralunga. Best of Wine considers Giacomo Conterno to be one of the few estates where you can buy any vintage with confidence.

History & Heritage

The story hinges on one decision. After World War I, Giacomo Conterno returned to Monforte d'Alba and refused to continue selling bulk Nebbiolo; in 1924, he produced the first Barolo Riserva Monfortino under the family name. That was the beginning of the foundation of the company.

Another turning point came in 1969, when Giacomo's son Aldo spun off and founded Poderi Aldo Conterno. Giovanni stayed on and continued to follow the traditionalist line, purchasing the Cascina Francia vineyard in 1974. Since then, everything at Monfortino has come down to these two decisions: stick to tradition and own the fruit.

Grape Varieties

Monfortino is made from a single grape variety:

100% Nebbiolo

In any case, purity is everything in Monfortino, although it is not a prerequisite for Barolo DOCG. Nebbiolo is late ripening (often harvested in mid-October), has thin skins, and is very sensitive to site. The soils of Serralunga yield the resin, dried roses, cherries, and truffles that characterize classic Barolo. The grapes for blending are not hidden at all. There is no hiding place.

Winemaking

Maceration is key. Monfortino uses indigenous yeasts in large tanks and long periods of contact with the skins, historically 50 days, sometimes longer. No rotary fermenters are used, and no temperature tricks are used to exceed natural cellar conditions. This extraction creates the tannin backbone.

Next comes aging. The wine is aged in large Slavonian oak barrels for a minimum of seven years before bottling. These large barrels (botti grandi) breathe slowly and add little to the oak flavor. You can taste the flavors of Nebbiolo and Serralunga, not vanilla or toast. Usually the wines are only on the market eight years after the harvest. There is nothing fast here.

Tasting Notes

Pale garnet in color, often translucent at the rim. Do not be fooled by this color. Dried rose petals, tar, sour cherries, leather, dried herbs, and, with aging, Alba's characteristic truffles. On the palate, tannins play an important role. Firmly structured, the wine is dry in its youth, but slowly becomes silky over 10 or 20 years. A high level of acidity gives the wine vitality.

Young Monfortino is almost austere; after 15 years, fruitiness returns and secondary notes of forest floor and dried mushrooms become dominant, with a long finish. This is a wine that rewards waiting more than any other.

Food Pairing

Tannins and acidity call for fat and umami. Some varietals that really work well:

• Tajarin with white truffles from Alba.
• Brazato al Barolo (beef braised for hours until it breaks down).
• Agnolotti del pleine, grilled in butter with sage.
• Aged Castelmagno or Alpine hard cheese.

Roasted pheasant, venison or wild boar ragout. Serve the wine at 16-18°C. Avoid spicy or acidic dishes: not suitable for tomato dishes.

Serving Suggestions

Serve at 16-18°C. Decant young Monfortino for at least 3-4 hours; for bottles older than 20 years, first let it stand for 24 hours, then carefully decant the sediment 30 minutes before drinking. Use a large Burgundy-shaped glass. Aromas need space.

Vintages

Monfortino is only made in vintages that Roberto Conterno deems worthy, so the differences from release to release tend to be personality rather than quality; warm years like 2019 bring more fruit and accessibility early in the wine's life. Classic, well-structured years like 2006 require cellaring, but are rewarding; older bottlings like 1982 are now in a full force with truffles and forest floor, while the 1969 wines are an entirely different chapter.

Cellaring Potential

Aging time depends on the vintage, but Monfortino is usually kept in the cellar for 30 to 50 years; a wine like the 2019 will begin to show good expression by around 2030 and may last until 2060 or later. The combination of high tannin content, high acidity, and 7 years of barrel aging makes this take off; store horizontally, away from light, at a stable temperature of 12-14°C.