Domaine du Bouchot

Located in the village of Saint-Andlen, on the east bank of the Loire River, Domaine du Bouchot is a small estate quietly bringing change to one of France’s most traditional white wine regions. Run by Antoine Gouffier and his wife Ilse Nel, it is situated in the Pouilly-Fumé appellation, directly across the river from Sancerre.

History

The estate was founded in 1985 by Rachel and Pascal Kerbyke, who were ahead of their time. They became the first producers in Pouilly-Fumé to receive organic certification in 2009, and soon after began practising biodynamic methods. In 2018, Antoine Guffier took over the day-to-day management of the estate, and the following year he bought it outright. Antoine grew up in the region, but before returning home he spent twelve years travelling the wine world, working with Michel Rolland at Clos de los Siete in Argentina and with Duncan Savage in South Africa, where he met Ilse. The work quickly paid off: in 2022, La Revue du Vin de France named the estate ‘Discovery of the Year’.

Vineyards

Domaine du Bouchot covers around 10 hectares, all situated near the village of Saint-Andlen in the southern part of the appellation. The vineyards grow on a south-west facing slope. The oldest plots, known as Les Coûtes and Les Sapins, were planted as far back as 1955 and cover just 0.46 hectares. Almost all are planted with Sauvignon Blanc, with the exception of a small plot of Chasselas, preserved for the AOC Pouilly-sur-Loire, a tribute to a variety that once dominated the region.

Terroir

The estate cultivates two distinct soil types, which lend the wines their character. Caillottes are stony, shallow limestone soils that produce lighter, more aromatic wines. Terres Blanches are heavier soils consisting of Kimmeridgian clay and limestone, full of fossils of marine organisms that lived millions of years ago, and they generally produce wines with greater depth and minerality.

Grape varieties

Sauvignon Blanc is the primary variety from which all Pouilly-Fumé wines are produced. A small amount of Chasselas is grown for the Pouilly-sur-Loire appellation, the only AOC in this region where this variety is permitted.

Winemaking

Antoine strives for minimal intervention in the process. The vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic; herbal preparations are used where necessary, and the harvest dates are determined by tasting the grapes. Harvesting is carried out exclusively by hand. In the cellar, fermentation begins spontaneously with the help of local yeasts, and nothing is added or removed. Most of the wine ferments in stainless steel tanks, whilst small batches are transferred to French oak barrels or amphorae, the latter being a relatively new technique for this region.

Wines

The main range includes Pouilly-Fumé ‘Caillottes’ and Pouilly-Fumé ‘Terres Blanches’, which is more dense and mineral. The flagship wine is MCMLV, named after the Roman numerals denoting 1955, the year the old vines were planted. The wine selection is:

- Pouilly Fumé Caillottes (meaning "limestone")
- Pouilly Fumé Terres Blanches (meaning 'white soil')
- Pouilly Fumé MCMLV
- Pouilly sur Loire Chasselas
- Orange wine (5 months maceration on the skin)

Bouchot's wines are pure, expressive and incredibly balanced. Because of the biodynamic approach, these are not "polished" sauvignon blancs, but rather more rustic, with minerality nicely balanced with fruit and fresh notes. Antoine Gouffier's star is still rising, but given the quality of the wine, it is not surprising that his wines have become highly sought after within a short time.