Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay Emmanuel Houillon 2017 Pierre Overnoy

Professional reviews

Robert Parker (96)

The 2017 Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay (white wax) doesn't say Chardonnay anywhere on the bottle (none of the wines mention grape varieties, and they all have the same label), so you have to know the color coding of the wax (Chardonnays are sealed with white wax). This comes from 1.63 hectares of marl soils from Lias and Bajocien limestone and a year with limited frost when the full clusters were pressed directly and the juice put to ferment in foudre. The wine is very clean with a very dry and spicy palate with good ripeness, a little closed and mineral. This was already bottled, but he commented on how the 2018 had just finished fermenting now (we're talking June 2023!), and the wine finished with an incredibly low volatile acidity (0.4 grams per liter) for such a long fermentation. The magic that happens in that simple cellar is impossible to fathom...

BOW (8.75)