Domaine Henri Germain

A domaine built in 1973, and by two marriages

The history of Domaine Henri Germain dates back to 1973, when Henri purchased a vineyard in Meursault. The Chassagne parcel was acquired through his wife's family, the Pillots family, which is why a Meursault-based domaine gained a foothold in Chassagne-Montrachet.

Currently, the domaine is run by their son, Jean-François Germain. He married the daughter of François Jobard, another well-known Meursault family, and thanks to this connection, the Premier Cru Poruzots was incorporated into the estate. The formation of this domaine has been shaped as much by marriages as by acquisitions.

The next generation has already taken its place. With Jean-François's daughter, Lucie, joining the domaine in recent years, three generations of the family have now been involved in its management since 1973. While this may not be a very long history by Côte de Beaune's standards, it is a history marked by very strong family ties.

Small vineyards, big wines

There are no large-scale vineyards here. Henri Germain and Fils cultivate only a tiny fraction, measured in hectares, of several well-known climats in Meursault, and these figures explain why this wine is so hard to find.

• Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, 0.63 ha
• Meursault 1er Cru Poruzots, 0.24 ha
• Meursault 1er Cru Perrières, just 0.16 ha
• Meursault Clos des Mouches, 0.51 ha. Meursault Clos des Mouches, 0.51 ha. This is a monopole, meaning the domaine owns the entire vineyard. Because vines of this age yield very little, this is one of the reasons why this red wine is considered the finest among the domaine's Pinot Noir wines.

The base: meursault

Meursault's reputation is based on a standardized description: rich flavor, hazelnut, butter, and subtle notes of honey and oak. While this description may provide some insight, the village is far more diverse than this brief summary suggests; the domaine, which owns Perrières, Charmes, and Poruzots, effectively handles three quite distinct expressions.

Wine has been produced here for a very long time. Records indicate that as far back as 1098, Eudes, Duke of Burgundy, donated vineyards in Meursault to the newly established Cîteaux Abbey, and the village is situated at the foot of a hillside that has been inhabited since the Neolithic era.

Since Henri Germain and Fils span across Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Beaune, their holdings consist of several distinct parcels within the Côte de Beaune rather than a single hill. Practicing biodynamic farming across an entire area composed of such small parcels is a labor-intensive endeavor that is only feasible on this scale.

Chardonnay leads, Pinot Noir follows

As you might expect from this section of Burgundy, there are two grape varieties:

• Chardonnay: Covers all the white Meursault wines, as well as Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Fairendes
• Pinot Noir: A variety used for red wine, including Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes and Chassagne-Montrachet
• In the Clos de Mouches, the pinot fin variety is cultivated, specifically, a selection of small-berried Pinot Noir grapes planted in 1949

While Henri Germain & Fils are best known for their white wines, the reds are by no means neglected.

Winemaking

At Henri Germain & Fils, the grapes are sent to the press without being crushed. This is a gentler first step that sets the tone for the subsequent processes.

Oak barrel aging takes place in 228-liter barrels made at the Damy cooperage for 12 to 18 months, with 20% of the barrels being new oak. For Meursault Premier Cru wines, 20% is a relatively restrained proportion, and as a result, the oak aromas settle subtly in the background rather than taking center stage.

The harvest date is where many Meursault domaines express their identity, harvesting early for freshness or late for richness. Germains falls into neither category; as a result, the wines possess concentrated fruit flavors while maintaining a structure and tension that prevent them from becoming heavy.

There is one small detail that offers a glimpse into their philosophy: every wine is bottled with high-quality corks sourced from Sardinia. While most wineries pay little attention to their choice of corks, this one is different.

The wines

Meursault is the centerpiece of this product line. Henri Germain & Fils bottle two village wines, Meursault Limozin and Meursault Chevalières, and three Premier Crus: Porusots, Charmes, and Perrières. Perrières is the smallest holding of the three.

Meursault Clos de Mouches Rouge is an exception in this lineup; it is a red Meursault from the domaine's monopole, made from vines planted in 1949, having a silky-smooth style. Red Meursault is exceptional on its own, and the Red Meursault monopole is even more so.

In addition to Meursaults, this domaine produces the white wine Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Fairendes, as well as the red wines Chassagne-Montrachet and Beaune 1er Cru Bressandes. Because the vineyards are small, none of these wines are produced in large quantities.