Avis professionnels
Robert Parker (98)
Aged on the full lees for nearly two years in stücks (1,200-liter oval barrels), the 2023 Rheingau Riesling Trocken Monte Vacano is a fascinating, deep, intense and complex wine that is doubtlessly a great Rheingau Riesling. Full-bodied yet pure, fresh and finessed on the palate, this is an elegant, rich and layered, persistently saline Monte Vacano with fine tannins and a long, tensioned finish. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in August 2025.
James Suckling (100)
This great dry Rheingau masterpiece demands your full attention, because at first it’s still quite closed in the nose. Then, on the palate, it pours over you in one great wave, a cornucopia of wet-stone, salty and herbal flavors cascading over the medium-bodied palate. Enormously concentrated and focused with a finish that knocks you back in your chair. The white-peach and floral aromas open ever more with aeration. From organically grown grapes. Wild-fermented and matured on the full lees in large neutral-oak casks for 21 months without sulfites! Vegan. Drink or hold.
Vinous (98)
The 2023 Riesling Monte Vacano is from the steepest parcel of Gräfenberg that the family has always called Monte Vacano. This spent 21 months on gross lees, without sulfur dioxide. The shy nose speaks to its subtlety, shimmering with lemon and a distinct creaminess that frames stone fruit and verges gently, deliciously into pale apricot. The palate is all purity and flow. The 2023 is a dreamy, gorgeous, seductive and bone-dry Riesling of the finest order. The finish is of the purest, ripest golden lemon. Readers should note that larger bottle formats of this are sold at auction. (Bone-dry)
Falstaff (97)
Needs air and time in the glass, multi-layered aroma of fruit, floral notes, herbal savouriness and slate terroir. Concentrated structure on the palate, finely nuanced with great elegance, dense and characterised by minerality, compact with plenty of certain ageing potential for many years to come.
