Ao Yun

Ao Yun wines have a story and a history. The wine estate is a collaboration of International winemakers and local Tibetan families: modern winemaking meets centuries-old farming. And, as estate manager Maxence Dulou says, "it's a real human adventure", one that shows in every bottle.

History

Ao Yun isn't your typical bottle of red wine. It's the result of a wild idea: Could China, a country not really known for its reds, produce a world-class wine?

The tale starts back in 2008, when Mo"et Hennessy, part of the LVMH group, sent Australian winemaker Tony Jordan on a mission to find the perfect spot somewhere in China to make outstanding red wine.

The first vintage came in 2013, and Ao Yun was born. The name means "flying above the clouds," which makes sense when you realize the vineyards sit at altitudes between 2,200 and 2,600 meter, so high that, on some days, you're literally above the cloud line. Since then, Ao Yun is getting more and more famous, not just in China but worldwide.

The Vineyards

Ao Yun's vineyards are anything but ordinary. They cover four remote villages: Adong, Xidang, Sinong, and Shuori in a mountain region of China. You get there by way of a hairpin-bend road that takes about four hours to drive through; sometimes, you're so high above the valley floor that you can see for dozens of kilometers. The road closes in winter when snow comes, the way it does for days at a time in some of the most inhospitable parts of the world.

For centuries, farming had been the way of life for local Tibetan families. Today, about 120 of the families who long ago settled on this land work with Ao Yun; quite literally, as even today, all the work in the vineyards is done by hand. Why work with these local families? Because much of the success of Ao Yun can be attributed to the deep knowledge these families have of the land and their traditional farming methods.

The Terroir

What makes Ao Yun remarkable is its terroir In this instance, the altitude is vital. The vineyards rank among the loftiest in the global red wine sector, situated at altitudes ranging from 2,200 to 2,600 meters above sea level.

The altitude means there's reduced oxygen, increased sunlight, and huge variations between daytime and nighttime temperatures. The days are really short but super-intense, which drives the grapes to develop thick skins and small berries, the better to make concentrated, true-to-terroir wines. The cool nights keep the grapes healthy and fresh and allow for an extended, even crazy-long, ripening period that can elevate the grape's expression to an art form.

There are about 20 distinct soil types across the 314 vineyard plots of Ao Yun. Each small parcel has its own individuality, and they are all picked and fermented separately to showcase that uniqueness.

The Grapes Used

Ao Yun is a blend as well, but the backbone is Cabernet Sauvignon, just like many top Bordeaux wines. Depending on the vintage, the blend also includes Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Petit Verdot. For example, the 2018 vintage was made from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 7% Syrah, and 4% Petit Verdot.

This combination of grapes contributes to the layered and complicated nature of Ao Yun . The Cabernet Sauvignon gives shape and form to this wine; it supplies the base components of dark fruit, perfume, and spice, while the other grape varieties: Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc provide the high notes that make this wine sing.

Way of Winemaking

Producing wine at this elevation is difficult. Winemaking at this altitude is challenging. Winemaking at this high altitude is not for the faint of heart. There’s 25% less oxygen than at sea level, which impacts fermentation. Making wine at this altitude is a challenge. It must be adapted to. Seemingly simple processes must be rethought. With that much less oxygen, the fermentation will proceed much more slowly. As a compensatory measure, the winemaking team has had to take several unusual steps.

Everything is done by hand, from picking the grapes to sorting and fermenting. Each of the 314 vineyard parcels is fermented separately, so the team can blend the final wine with precision. The focus is always on letting the unique character of each plot shine through, rather than forcing the wine into a particular style.

Ao Yun is dedicated to sustainability, too. The vineyards are run as a closed, carbon-neutral ecosystem, with plant and animal life supporting each other in what the locals call a "virtuous circle."

3 Fun Facts

- Above the Clouds: The name Ao Yun is not only poetic—it is also literal. For many a day, the vineyards are actually above the clouds, creating a surreal, unearthly sensation in the place.

- No Machines Present: Every function of the vineyard is performed by people, specifically local Tibetan families. There is no equipment found here, perhaps partly due to the steepness of the slope, and also to maintain the traditional ways of the vineyard and the special character of the wine.

- Record Breaker: Ao Yun has some of the highest scores ever given for a wine from China. The vintage of 2018 amassed a whopping 98 points from James Suckling, making it the highest-rated wine from China of all time.