Ao Yun

Ao Yun may not have existed for long, but it is already a wine with a story and a history. The estate is a collaboration between international winemakers and local Tibetan families. In total, 131 local families maintain the vineyards.

Estate Manager and winemaker Maxence Dulou previously worked as winemaker at Quinault l’Enclos and La Tour du Pin, both owned by LVMH, which asked him in 2013 to establish Ao Yun. He moved to China with his family and sees the project as a truly human adventure, something he believes should be reflected in every bottle.

History

Ao Yun is a remarkable wine estate that originated from a bold idea: could China (a country not known for its red wines) produce a wine of world-class quality?

The story began in 2008, when Moët Hennessy (part of the LVMH Group) sent Australian winemaker Tony Jordan on a mission to find the perfect place in China to make outstanding red wine.

He traveled throughout China until he arrived in the Himalayas, where French missionaries had planted the first vines over a century earlier. Around the year 2000, more vineyards were planted by local farmers with support from the Chinese government. The vineyards are sheltered between two mountain ranges, with little rainfall but sufficient water thanks to a river flowing through the valley. Jordan recognized the ideal conditions for a new wine estate, and Ao Yun was born.

The name Ao Yun means “flying above the clouds,” which makes sense when you realize the vineyards lie at altitudes between 2,200 and 2,600 meters, so high that on some days you are literally above the cloud line. Since then, Ao Yun has gained increasing recognition, not just in China, but globally.

The Vineyards

The vineyards of Ao Yun are far from ordinary. The estate encompasses nearly 31 hectares spread across 773 small plots in four remote villages: Adong, Xidang, Sinong, and Shuori, deep in China’s mountainous regions. The vineyards are reached via a winding mountain road that takes about four hours to travel—offering breathtaking views over the valleys. In winter, the road is often closed due to snow, which is common in these inhospitable parts of the world. Due to the difficult access, only wine professionals are allowed to visit. Many visitors also suffer from altitude sickness due to the extreme elevation.

For centuries, agriculture has been the way of life for the local Tibetan families. Today, around 131 of these families work in the vineyards—families who settled this land long ago. They are employed by the estate, which also leases the land from them. Much of Ao Yun’s success is due to the deep knowledge these families have of the land and their traditional farming methods. All vineyard work is still done by hand, which is extremely demanding at altitudes between 2,200 and 2,600 meters.

The Terroir

What makes Ao Yun exceptional is its terroir, especially the altitude. The vineyards are among the highest in the world for red wine, ranging from 2,200 to 2,600 meters above sea level.

The elevation means lower oxygen levels, more intense sunlight, and extreme day-to-night temperature variations. The days are short but intense, prompting the grapes to develop thick skins and small berries, resulting in concentrated, terroir-driven wines. The cool nights keep the grapes healthy and fresh, and allow for an exceptionally long ripening period that elevates grape expression to an art form.

There are about 20 different soil types among the 773 vineyard plots of Ao Yun. Each small plot has its own character and is harvested and vinified separately to highlight its unique identity.

The Grapes Used

Ao Yun is a blend, with Cabernet Sauvignon as its backbone—just like many top Bordeaux wines. Depending on the vintage, the blend also includes Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and Petit Verdot. For example, the 2018 vintage consisted of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 7% Syrah, and 4% Petit Verdot.

This combination of grapes contributes to the layered and complex nature of Ao Yun. The Cabernet Sauvignon provides structure, dark fruit, perfume, and spice, while varieties like Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc add brightness and aromatic lift to make the wine sing.

Winemaking

Winemaking at this altitude presents unique challenges. The growing season is much longer than in vineyards at lower elevations. Additionally, the air contains about 25% less oxygen than at sea level, which significantly affects fermentation. Processes that are considered standard elsewhere must be re-evaluated. For example, with much less oxygen available, fermentation proceeds far more slowly.

To compensate, the winemaking team has implemented some unconventional methods. For example, they increase aeration during maceration and extend the process. For the same reason, malolactic fermentation is conducted in new oak, and the wine is partially aged in oxygen-permeable amphorae.

Everything is done by hand—from harvesting and sorting to fermentation. Each vineyard parcel is vinified separately, allowing the team to blend with precision. The focus is always on showcasing the unique identity of each plot, rather than imposing a fixed style.

Ao Yun is also committed to sustainability. The vineyards are managed biodynamically as a closed ecosystem, with plants and animals supporting one another in what the locals call a “virtuous circle.”

Reputation

In its early years, the project was met with skepticism by the global wine world, people simply weren’t used to the idea that China could produce world-class wines. But under Maxence Dulou’s leadership, the estate has shown consistent quality growth. Thanks to ongoing support and promotion from LVMH, public perception quickly shifted.

Ao Yun is a wine with a truly unique flavor—so distinct that even the most experienced blind taster might not be able to identify it if they haven’t encountered it before. Today, its quality is widely acknowledged: Ao Yun has firmly earned its place among the world’s greatest wines.

Two Fun Facts:
• There are no machines at Ao Yun: every aspect of vineyard work is done by hand—mainly by local Tibetan families. The steep slopes make mechanization impossible, and the estate wants to preserve both the traditional methods and the unique character of the wine.

• Ao Yun has received some of the highest scores ever awarded to a Chinese wine. The 2020 vintage earned a remarkable 99 points from James Suckling, making it the highest-rated Chinese wine of all time. Other vintages have also received scores as high as 98 points.