Clos des Papes
Many wineries in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region have built their reputations on carefully selected special cuvées that are bottled only in the best vintages. Clos des Papes, on the other hand, takes the exact opposite approach. It produces just one red wine from each year's harvest.
Vincent Avril is the owner, and his approach is uncompromisingly simple: he cultivates organically wherever possible, keeps yields low, destems the grapes, and never ages the wine in new oak barrels. The result is a full-bodied southern Rhône red wine that has a rich flavor without losing its elegance, no easy feat in this appellation.
This winery has a long history and is considered one of the leading wineries in the southern Rhône region. While red wines dominate the lineup, Clos des Papes also produces white Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Four soils, one appellation
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a region characterized by a mix of diverse soils rather than a single terroir. This appellation features four soil types originating from three distinct geological eras: limestone fragments, the famous rounded gravel, sandy soil, and red sandstone.
Thanks to this mix, the wines from this region have a very broad spectrum of aromas. The sand imparts a fragrant and lively character, while the gravel stores the day's heat and slowly releases it at night, and the limestone adds freshness. By cultivating vineyards across these diverse soil types, growers secure a wealth of material to utilize in their blends.
Furthermore, Châteauneuf-du-Pape was the first French appellation to be granted AOC status in 1936. Clos des Papes adheres to these regulations; in the southern Rhône region, heat and ripeness are rarely an issue, so the focus is typically on achieving balance.
The grapes
Châteauneuf-du-Pape uses a variety of grape varieties, and Clos des Papes utilizes more varieties than most people realize. While the exact proportions vary from year to year, the 2012 vintage red wine is a good example of this winery's style:
- Grenache makes up 65% and forms the backbone of the wine
- Mourvèdre accounts for 20%, adding structure and a firm texture
- Syrah makes up 10%
- The remainder consists of small amounts of lesser-known varieties from the appellation, including Counoise
Mourvèdre, which makes up one-fifth of the blend, plays a significant role. This variety ripens late, adding tannins and a savory depth; this is one of the reasons these red wines maintain their quality even after long-term cellaring, rather than fading over the years.
The winemaking
First, let's take a look at the vineyard. This is because most of the work takes place right there. Vincent Avril cultivates the land using organic methods as much as possible, and Clos des Papes' yield is kept very low. Looking at the yields from 2008 to 2012, the average was approximately 2.9 metric tons per hectare.
At the winery, the approach is equally straightforward. The grapes are destemmed. Since new oak barrels are never used, no additional flavors are superimposed on the fruit's natural character, and the wine retains the distinctive character of Châteauneuf-du-Pape rather than taking on the aroma of oak.
Given the rich ripeness offered by the southern Rhône region, intensity and elegance may sound like contradictory concepts in this appellation. Through low yields, a method that avoids whole-cluster fermentation, and the use of neutral oak barrels, Clos des Papes manages to capture both of these characteristics in a single bottle.
The wines
Clos des Papes bottles only one red wine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, each year. It does not select specific vineyard plots and has no Prestige Cuvée of a higher grade than this wine. Everything hinges on this one wine.
This red wine is dry and full-bodied, and in hot years, its alcohol content can reach about 15%. It is sealed with cork, no new oak barrels are used, and it is made from a blend consisting primarily of Grenache, with Mourvèdre making up a significant portion.
In addition to this red wine, the winery also produces a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Although this wine receives far less attention than the red, it is part of the winery's regular production lineup.
Frequently asked questions
Who runs Clos des Papes?
Vincent Avril is the proprietor. The estate had already built a strong reputation before him, and he has raised the bar to even greater heights.
Does Clos des Papes use new oak?
No. New oak is never used for the wines, which is a deliberate and long-standing choice at the estate.
Does Clos des Papes make more than one wine?
There is one red Châteauneuf-du-Pape per vintage, plus a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. No special or limited cuvée is bottled above the red.
Where is Clos des Papes based?
In Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the southern Rhône valley of France, the first French appellation to receive AOC status.