Telmont

The history

Champagne Telmont began as a dispute over quality. In 1911, grape growers throughout the region staged a revolt, and Henri Lhôpital, a winemaker from Damery, wrote the lyrics to a song titled Gloire au Champagne urging his colleagues not to lower their quality standards at a time when phylloxera was ravaging the vineyards. A year later, in 1912, he opened a wine house under his own name.

His son, André, became cellar master in 1937, following Henri's death. In 1939, André enlisted in the 2nd Regiment of the Cuirassiers, the oldest surviving cavalry regiment in the French Army, which traces its origins to the 17th century. Telmont's logo and stated values still draw inspiration from the Cuirassiers' coat of arms, which is unusual given that the Champagne brand is based on it.

Returning to Champagne in 1947, André changed the family business's name to Champagne J. de Telmont. Since then, four generations of Lhôpital winemakers and cellar masters have carried on the tradition, with the fourth-generation Bertrand Lhôpital leading production and viticulture into the 2020s. Currently, Brice Bezin is listed as the cellar master and head of grape sourcing.

Ludovic du Plessis serves as chairman of Maison Telmont, and the most recent history belongs to him: The environmental program, which Telmont dubbed Name of Mother Nature, has transformed the 100-year-old vineyard into an organic project aimed at achieving carbon neutrality by 2050.

The vineyards

The vineyard owned by Telmont spans 24.5 hectares across eight crus, all located on the right bank of the river, in an area characterized by gentle hills and small villages connected by narrow, winding alleyways.

All three of Champagne's main grape varieties are grown on these vineyard plots. Of course, it does purchase grapes from outside sources as well. Telmont is registered as a négociant manipulant, allowing it to blend purchased grapes with its own harvest during winemaking.

Vineyard management here is labour-intensive. In winter, each vine is pruned by hand, and shoots are tied to wires using biodegradable ties; in spring, non-fruiting shoots are removed. Additionally, growing shoots are lifted and secured vertically to ensure good airflow through the foliage, thereby preventing fungal diseases.

The terroir

The soil is precisely where Telmont's terroir concept is put into practice. No herbicides are used at all, and grass is allowed to grow between the rows of vines to prevent erosion. Pruned branches are finely shredded and left to decompose in the soil, and organic fertilizer is applied in February. To control grapevine moths and similar pests, rather than spraying pesticides, the team uses a pheromone disruption technique, releasing female pheromones to interfere with mating.

Three varieties

Champagne Telmont cultivates and utilizes the three main grape varieties of this appellation through its own vineyards located in Damery and through partner growers:

• Pinot Noir
• Meunier
• Chardonnay

No single grape variety exclusively defines this winery's identity. Blanc de Blancs is made exclusively from Chardonnay, and Blanc de Noirs is produced from red grape varieties.

The winemaking, organic

The figures clearly demonstrate their ambitious goals: approximately 70% of their vineyard area (comprising both their own vineyards and those of partner growers) is certified organic, and they aim to convert the entire operation to organic and regenerative agriculture. For reference, less than 4% of Champagne's vineyards are certified organic, so Telmont is far ahead of the regional average and makes a point of highlighting this fact.

In the wine cellar, the winery strives for a style that is structured yet subtle. It is characterized by fine bubbles, subtle acidity, and a long finish based on freshness rather than richness. The wines are classified as Brut and Extra-Brut. The aging period on the lees varies significantly depending on the cuvée, ranging from 3 to 5 years for the shortest to over 11 years for the oldest cuvées.

And there is one detail that most houses omit from their tasting notes. Telmont uses 100% renewable electricity, bottles its products exclusively in eco-friendly glass bottles made from 85% recycled materials, has completely eliminated gift boxes, and no longer uses air freight throughout its supply chain; instead, it selects carriers based on their corporate social responsibility (CSR) scores. Its ultimate goal is to achieve carbon neutrality by 2050.

The range, from Réserve to Vinothèque

Telmont categorizes its champagne into six lines: Réserve, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noirs, Organic, Confidential, and Vinothèque. Of the nine cuvées in total, seven are single-vintage wines, which represents a high proportion for a house of this size.

The flagship products are typically the ones most people encounter first:

• Réserve Brut: A non-vintage blend that defines the house's style
• Réserve Rosé
• Blanc de Blancs: made exclusively from Chardonnay
• Blanc de Noir, a wine made from black grape varieties

In addition to these, there are Réserve de la Terre and Réserve de la Terre Rosé, which are certified organic cuvées, Sans Soufre, which is vinified without added sulfur, and Vinothèque, a long-aged single-vintage wine that was disgorged after aging in the cellar for well over 10 years. Confidential Cuvée completes this collection.