Based on the 2018 vintage, complemented by reserve wines aged in magnum dating back to 2009, Bollinger's newly released NV Brut Blanc de Noirs PN AYC18 was disgorged this year with six grams per liter dosage. Foregrounding the village of Aÿ, a commune crucial to Bollinger's distinctive style, the wine wafts from the glass with aromas of golden orchard fruit, honeycomb, buttered toast, freshly baked bread and dried white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and vinous, with an ample core of fruit that's girdled by lively acids and animated by an elegant pinpoint mousse, this suave, charming Champagne concludes with a chalky finish. This has turned out beautifully.
BOW (8.25)
Jancis Robinson (17.50)
Disgorged January 2023. Not 100% Aÿ. See this earlier note on a bottle in August 2023.
Magnum served slightly too cold to flatter the wine but I pulled through. That earthy mushroom character was evident and the wine – remarkably like a red burgundy – finished delightfully clean, dry and savoury. (JR)
Vinous (92)
The NV PN AYC 2018 is the newest edition in Bollinger’s range of single village-based Champagnes, a series of wines created by former Chef de Caves Gilles Descôtes, who passed away earlier this year. Tense and vibrant, with notable saline intensity, the AYC (based on Aÿ) sizzles with energy. Dried pear, crushed flowers, mint, sage, chalk and light pastry notes all race across the palate. This release is 53% 2018 and 47% reserve wines, a big part of which are Bollinger’s famous reserve magnums (in this case 2009 Verzenay Pinot), plus dollops of 2017 and 2016 wines. The 2018 was done in equal parts oak and tank. Dosage is 6 grams per liter, but the impression is of a slightly drier style. The combination of a very warm base vintage blended with a high proportion of reserve wines yields a Champagne of notable complexity and texture.
Jeb Dunnuck (93)
Including the 2018, 2017, 2016, and 2009 vintage, the pale straw-copper hued NV Champagne PN AYC18 opens with stunning notes of jasmine and tropical flowers, followed by pure and expressive aromas of wild cherry, fresh orange, wet stone, and fresh roses. Full-bodied, with freshness throughout and a hint of warmth on its beautiful finish, this is the most successful of the wines from this line that I have tasted to date, offering fantastic length and gorgeous depth of fruit. It’s going to only improve with another few years in bottle, but it’s gorgeous now. Drink 2024-2034. Dosage 6 grams per liter.
