|Burgundy, Cotes de Nuits
The 2009 Vosne-Romanee Cros Parantoux flows onto the palate with seamless fruit. This is a gorgeous, expansive wine that shows off tons of pedigree and class. The fruit builds with notable intensity and depth towards a soft, caressing finish of nearly indescribable beauty. This is a great wine from Emmanuel Rouget. The Cros Parantoux was aged in 100% new oak. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.
This small domaine is one of Burgundy’s best kept secrets. Emmanuel Rouget farms 8 hectares of vineyards, of which he owns 2.5. Rouget began harvesting on September 12. The fruit was 10% destemmed. Fermentation and maceration lasted about 20 days. The wines were pressed, and the sediment was left to decant naturally for two days. The wines were then racked into barrel with the fine lees. The malos were fast in 2009; they took only 4 months to complete, versus 17 for the 2008s. Rouget expected to do no rackings until the wines were prepared for bottling, with no fining or filtration. I tasted all of these wines from new oak barrels. Readers will note that some of these wines, especially at the entry-level are not aged in 100% new oak. That means the samples I tasted are not fully representative of the final wines. Ordinarily in a situation like this I would ask to taste multiple barrels, but my schedule was particularly tight on the day I visited Rouget. Of course, this is not an issue with the top wines, which are aged in 100% new oak. This is a beautiful set of wines from top to bottom.
A highly spiced and fresh yet restrained and cool nose of wet stone, spice and high-toned red pinot fruit aromas is followed by stony, intense and beautifully delineated medium-bodied flavors that brim with an abundance of dry extract that largely buffers the very firm but ripe tannins on the stunningly long and still youthfully austere finish. This is a truly stunning effort that seamlessly combines finesse and power.