Bernard van Berg
Bernard van Berg is based in Meursault and operating in the Côte de Beaune region, he made wine from two hectares of unremarkable land, bottling most of it under unassuming labels such as Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire or Vin de France. He then watched as those bottles made their way onto the wine lists of restaurants like Noma, located in Copenhagen. The grapes were organically grown; yields were extremely low, and the winemaking process was virtually hands-off. Whole-bunch fermentation, wild yeast, and minimal sulfur were used, along with new oak barrels. Even though these wines had no famous appellation of origin, their prices reached the hundreds of euros. Furthermore, there was almost no marketing for these wines. The winery operated in this manner for about 15 years before changing ownership.
A photographer moves to Meursault
Bernard van Berg built his career behind the camera before moving to Burgundy in the early 2000s. Most records describe him as a native of Belgium, but at least one record indicates that his origins trace back to the Netherlands, and that he moved from Belgium with his wife, Judith, in 2001.
That same year, he established the domaine at 1 rue du Moulin Judas in Meursault. In 2002, he took on the challenge of making his first wine. The goal he set for himself was provocatively straightforward. It was to create the greatest wine of all time, in other words, the wine he wanted to drink.
Judith van Berg handled most of the communication, including pricing; she described this not as a calculation based on market logic, but as a reward for years of hard work. She later described the entire process as an adventure or a fairy tale.
This adventure came to an end in 2017 when the vineyard was sold and passed to new owners. According to those who visited the site at the time, both founders had found peace of mind regarding this decision.
Two hectares
Van Berg acquired approximately 2 hectares of land surrounding Meursault already planted with Chardonnay, Aligoté, Pinot Noir, and Gamay, some of which dated back to 1950. None of this farmland was located in Côte de Beaune's prestigious area. That was precisely the point.
Farming was done organically; the farm had been certified since 2008 and used no fertilizers or pesticides whatsoever. The soil was plowed with horses. Yields were extremely low, which was a natural consequence of this method of farming.
Les Echalas illustrates just how meticulous they were. It was a very small plot surrounded by wild shrubs, and located in En Busigny, where the target yield was less than 7 hl per hectare. Each vine was supported by a stake, and the shoots were tied with thin string, which was gradually moved higher as the vines grew, ensuring that sunlight and wind reached all sides. Ditches were dug on both sides of the plot to prevent heavy rain from flowing toward the roots. Judith van Berg said that walking there felt as if you were standing on an island.
Four varieties on a very small holding
The vineyards here were not based on any particular variety but consisted of a mix of varieties, which is unusual for a Meursault-based estate and explains why so many different labels were released. The grape varieties grown here are as follows:
- Chardonnay, which forms the backbone of En Busigny bottled wines
- Aligoté, which is bottled as a single-varietal wine
- Pinot Noir
- Gamay, which is excluded from most Côte de Beaune appellations
The breakdown by variety for these 2 hectares has never been disclosed. What is clear is that Gamay and Aligoté, along with the two representative Burgundian varieties, were all cultivated in the same small vineyard using the same cultivation methods.
Winemaking
The winemaking process for Bernard van Berg's wines was straightforward. The stems were not removed; instead, the grapes were added whole. No yeast was added, nor was any sugar added to boost alcohol. The use of sulfur dioxide was kept to an absolute minimum.
Aging took place in new oak barrels, which was a bold choice for a regional appellation wine made from low-yield grapes.
Every aspect of this approach was a gamble based on the belief that the vineyard would do its part. Intervention was minimal, adjustments were few, and there were absolutely no safeguards in place in case the vintage failed.
The wines
The product line is organized around plot names rather than appellations. The Van Berg bottles bore names such as En Busigny, Les Echalas, Les Gamets, Les Aligotés, while some were released as Bourgogne or Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, and others as Vin de France; the lineup also included a sparkling cuvée. The white wine, red wine, and Aligoté were all produced from the same 2-hectare vineyard.
Pricing was never tied to classification. The regional appellation wines produced from this vineyard were generally sold at very high prices, and the vineyard made no attempt to justify this through marketing.
Frequently asked questions
Where was Domaine Bernard van Berg based?
In Meursault, in the Côte de Beaune, at 1 rue du Moulin Judas.
Why do the labels say Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire or Vin de France?
Because the vines sat outside the prestigious appellations, and because varieties like Gamay and Aligoté are not permitted under the grander Côte de Beaune names.
Is the estate still run by Bernard and Judith van Berg?
No. It was sold in 2017 and passed to new owners, ending roughly fifteen years of production under the founders.
What made the wines so sought after?
A combination of very low yields, organic and horse-ploughed farming, minimal-intervention winemaking and tiny quantities, plus placement on lists at restaurants including Noma in Copenhagen.
