Where is the Kongsgaard winery actually located?

Just from the name, one might assume that Kongsgaard lies somewhere in Scandinavia — but that’s misleading! John Kongsgaard founded his winery in California. His family has actually lived in the Golden State for five generations. It was John’s great-great-grandfather, governor Lilburn Boggs, who settled in Sonoma.

The Kongsgaard family has been based in Napa Valley since the 1920s, where they own land — including the legendary Judge Vineyard, whose Chardonnay so enchanted Robert Parker. John Kongsgaard and his wife Maggy planted this vineyard in the 1970s, long before he fulfilled his dream of owning his own winery.

Who is John Kongsgaard?

John Kongsgaard earned his success entirely on his own. As a top student of oenology at UC Davis, he dreamed of creating his own winery.

From 1976 to 1996, Kongsgaard worked as a winemaker at various estates — not all of them enjoyable, as he later admitted — but also at some top addresses. Most notably Newton Vineyards, where he spent many years and specialized in micro-vinification, earning him the nickname “Yoda of small-batch fermentation.” He also trained other winemakers and taught viticulture as a sought-after guest lecturer.

How did John Kongsgaard finally found his own winery?

He never lost sight of his dream of independence — but he refused to go into debt or bring investors on board. Instead, he did something quite untypical for California: he saved money. By the mid-1990s, he was able to lease his first cellar in St. Helena, where he vinified grapes from his own Judge Vineyard as well as purchased fruit.

His first wine came to market in 1996. The dream of a true family winery came true a decade later, in 2006, when he built his own cave winery deep into the volcanic rock at the top of Atlas Peak — completely self-financed, with help from his entire family. That marked the official birth of Kongsgaard Wine. By that time, the wines were already icons, allowing John the luxury of never having to sell them directly — they are allocated exclusively through his private mailing list.

Does Kongsgaard now use only his own grapes?

John Kongsgaard is known for being uncompromising when it comes to quality and expressing terroir. Still, he continues to buy some fruit — but under very strict conditions. He once said he saw no sense in buying eight tons of grapes if only two were worth using.

His contract growers know exactly when and how to work their vineyards to meet his standards. Many of them are elite growers themselves — such as Hudson and Hyde. However, one wine is made exclusively from estate-grown grapes: “The Judge” Chardonnay, the same wine that so impressed Robert Parker. The grapes come entirely from the family vineyard and are vinified in a very special way — which leads us to the next question.

How does John Kongsgaard make his wines?

You’ve probably heard the saying, “You must know the rules in order to break them.” That perfectly captures Kongsgaard’s philosophy.
He was one of UC Davis’s top students and learned every aspect of modern winemaking — yet he deliberately turned his back on modern methods and works almost entirely as winemakers did centuries ago, combined with his own high standards.

His vineyards are farmed organically and entirely by hand. Careful grape selection, hand-harvesting, and multiple sorting passes are all standard. He ferments with stems, never destems — not even white grapes. Only minimal sulfur is used, and only when malolactic fermentation needs to be prevented. Fermentations occur spontaneously in oak barrels, with native yeasts — commercial yeasts have never entered his cellar. There’s no pumping or temperature control, as he works completely without electricity during winemaking.

His wines are neither fined nor filtered — true low-intervention winemaking. They age in small oak barrels, often used multiple times, and undergo very long élevage so they can fully develop character. However, one form of electricity does play a role: John Kongsgaard loves classical music, which he believes affects the atmosphere in the cellar — and therefore the wine. His barrels, too, are regularly “serenaded” with classical compositions.

Does Kongsgaard produce only Chardonnay?

Chardonnay may be Kongsgaard’s signature grape, but the estate produces much more:

• The world-famous “The Judge” and Napa Valley Chardonnay
• An outstanding Syrah
• A complex, ageworthy Cabernet Sauvignon
• The “Kings Farm Red”, a unique blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon
• And even a little Albariño!

John Kongsgaard may be “Mister Chardonnay,” but above all, he is the “Master of Taste and Terroir.” And terroir is always at the center of everything he does.

What makes Kongsgaard’s terroir so special?

To understand his wines, you have to see terroir as more than just soil — it also means climate, topography, flora, fauna, and people.
That said, the foundation is the soil: hard, rocky volcanic bedrock, often very shallow and poor. Even his purchased grapes come from similar conditions. All vineyards are on steep slopes, which adds natural stress and concentration.

The climate is just as critical: cool morning breezes from San Pablo Bay temper the heat of the midday sun, and nights are cold.
These sharp temperature swings slow ripening and preserve acidity, creating grapes with intense aromas and natural balance — the key to Kongsgaard’s signature tension and vibrancy.

What is the Kongsgaard style?

If you love mineral, smoky notes, vivid but precise acidity, subtle elegance, and pure fruit expression without heaviness, Kongsgaard wines are for you. That balance of richness and restraint defines every wine and every vintage — though vintages can vary dramatically, from very good to truly phenomenal.

Unlike most Californian producers, Kongsgaard does not chase consistency. Instead of suppressing differences, he highlights them — allowing each vintage and parcel to express its individuality.

How does “The Judge” taste?

Grace that makes you want to kneel — that’s the essence of The Judge. This Chardonnay captivates every year with silky creaminess and profound, almost spiritual depth. These may sound like contradictions, but that’s what makes it special: Kongsgaard achieves the impossible balance of richness, freshness, and precision. Each vintage carries a signature stony, mineral edge that gives the wine vibrancy and lift.

Beyond that, every year is different. The 2018 is leaner and less oily than usual, while the 2022 shows almost vibrating freshness and cool precision. Yet all share one thing: that moment of reverent stillness after the first sip, when time seems to stop and you just want to explore every nuance for hours.

Why are Kongsgaard wines true rarities?

The simple answer: Kongsgaard produces too little wine — and demand is enormous. But in truth, he produces exactly as much as he wants, preserving total control and quality. He makes about 4,000 cases per year — compared to 30,000 at an average Napa winery, or 10,000 at a small boutique producer. Kongsgaard is a boutique among boutiques.

John Kongsgaard himself is an icon, and all his wines are legends. Naturally, every serious wine lover in the world wants to taste them. The result: his mailing list is legendary — some people wait ten years or more for an allocation, if they ever get one. And even then, “The Judge” is nearly impossible to obtain because of its minuscule production.

Luckily for you, Best of Wines is one of the few places where you can still find these treasures. Explore our selection of Kongsgaard wines and experience this Californian legend for yourself.