Sorte Antiga 2020 Rafael Palacios

Tasting Note Sorte Antiga 2020

Initially, aromas of quince and ripe pear are detectable, followed by more stony, rocky nuances reminiscent of crushed stone and a subtle hint of beeswax. The influence of skin contact is more evident on the palate than in the nose. On the mid-palate, you'll notice a subtle astringency from tannins, a rarity in white wines. With high acidity and a low pH, the finish is long, dry, and faintly salty, with no oiliness. While it's still somewhat reserved at this stage, it improves dramatically with exposure to air.

Grape Varieties

The 2020 vintage of Sorte Antiga is made from 100% Godello. Although the Valdeorras variety was nearly wiped out by phylloxera, it has been revived thanks to winemakers who recognized its potential in shale and granite soils. Rather than offering aromatic notes, this variety brings notes reminiscent of orchard fruit and a firm texture, making it exceptionally well-suited for skin-contact fermentation.

Cellaring Potential

Best enjoyed by 2034. High acidity and a low pH are the hallmarks of this wine, and the tannins derived from the skins provide a structure that many white wines lack. Serve at a temperature of 10-12 °C, decanting 30 minutes before serving. Over time, the stony nuances soften, giving way to more waxy notes.

About Rafael Palacios

One white grape, one valley, and no reds at all. Rafael Palacios works with Godello in Valdeorras, from a winery on Avenida Somoza in A Rúa and vineyards in Val do Bibei, around O Bolo. Younger brother of Álvaro Palacios, he applied the family name to Galician whites. The plots there are called sortes, the local word for parcel, and they give the wines their names: Sortes, Soro, Sorte Antiga. Each parcel is picked and kept apart in the cellar, with blending left until later, if at all. Oak stays in the background, especially in Louro (the more accessible bottling, sometimes with a little Treixadura). At 13.5 to 14 percent, these are structured whites, not light aperitifs. And in 2024 the estate registered a research project on adapting Godello to future climate conditions.

Terroir & Climate

Since Valdeorras is located about 150 kilometers from the coast, the influence of Atlantic is limited, resulting in a continental climate with warm summers and cold winters. The vineyards are situated at elevations of approximately 600 to 720 meters, where schist soils are common, and granite is found on the western slopes. This combination is well-suited to Godello, and yields tend to be low in these soils. The elevation keeps nights cool, which is the source of Sorte Antiga's acidity.

Winemaking

The decisive factor is maceration. Rafael Palacios ferments Sorte Antiga, including the grape skins, in 1,500-liter open-top oak barrels for one month. This allows for the extraction of texture and a small amount of tannins from the white grapes. Subsequently, French is aged on its lees in used 500-liter oak barrels. Since texture, rather than toasty aromas, is the priority here, used barrels are selected over new ones. Winemaking is conducted according to the principles of biodynamic agriculture. No artificial measures are taken here to make the wine appear more glamorous.

Food Pairing

In this case, the stars of the show when pairing this wine are not its fruity aromas, but its texture and saltiness. We highly recommend trying it with:

• Octopus with paprika and olive oil (Grilled), A classic dish that pairs perfectly with Galician, where the wine's richness harmonizes with the dish's savory flavors
• Hake roasted in the oven with potatoes
• Roast chicken with lemon and thyme, the wine's acidity cuts through the richness of the skin
• Aged sheep's milk cheese, it's salty enough to harmonize with the wine's finish