Sancerre Le Mont Damne 2019 Didier Dagueneau

Tasting Note Sancerre Le Mont Damne 2019

The first thing that catches the eye is the salty flavor. Then flavors of lemon curd, white peach and crushed oyster shell emerge. Typical Kimmeridgian character - chalk dust, wet stones and a salinity that persists through the finish. On the palate, the 2019 is denser than it looks. Real sharpness, real length. Most bottles will keep for another three to five years. Skeleton.

Grape Varieties

Sauvignon Blanc. It is not blended or flavored with other varieties. So why is it so important here? Because Sauvignon Blanc behaves differently on the Kimmeridgian marl of Le Mont Damné than on Silex in Pouilly. The smoky flint is gone, while the chalk, citrus zest and tighter mid-palate are enhanced. In 2019, the heat pushed ripeness, but the limestone kept the grapes honest.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2026 and 2038, but the optimal aging period is 2028-2033. The acidity and salinity, not the weight of the fruit, is what holds this wine together; it should be stored horizontally at 12-14°C to avoid temperature fluctuations. With aging, the citrus gives way to honey, beeswax and deeper chalky notes.

About Didier Dagueneau

Twelve hectares in Pouilly-Fumé. Didier Dagueneau built the estate from scratch in 1982, starting with 1.2 hectares in En-Chaille, and he was among the first in the region to ferment and age Sauvignon Blanc in oak, using it for texture rather than aroma. Yields sit at 50 to 75 per cent of what neighbours pick. Soils are still sometimes ploughed by horse, and harvesting is done by hand in several passes. Since his death in 2008, son Louis-Benjamin and daughter Charlotte have run things, and in 2018 they dropped the appellation and labelled the wines Vin de France. Plot by plot: Silex, Pur Sang, Buisson Renard, Astéroïde. But the Jurançon sweet wine Les Jardins de Babylone is the exception, made from Petit Manseng.

Terroir & Climate

Le Mont Damné is located in Chavignol, one of the most respected areas of Sancerre. The slopes are steep, almost 45 degrees in places, directed from south to southeast. The soil is Kimmeridgian marl (clay and limestone filled with oyster fossils), the same stratum as in Chablis. Why it's important. This marl stores water in dry years and pushes the vines deeper into the soil, giving the wine the minerality and acidity due to the chalk. Sauvignon Blanc on this soil is unique.

Winemaking

Dagueneau's Burgundy approach: indigenous yeast, no acidification, no clarification, long maturation on lees for about 12 months without bâtonnage. Oak is used for texture rather than flavor. Standard barrels, 320-liter cigar-shaped barrels and 600-liter foudres are used. After barrels, the wine is aged for several months in tanks before being bottled. Points. You get the gravity of a true white Burgundy wine without the vanilla veneer. That's why this Sauvignon ages so well.

Food Pairing

The local AOP goat cheese, Crottin de Chavignol, is also made in the same village. This is not a coincidence, but a textbook combination. Beyond:

• Oysters, straight, no mignonette
• Sandre au beurre blanc (pike perch, a traditional Loire dish)
• Grilled asparagus with lemon
• Sashimi and ceviche, savory.

Serve at 10-12°C. Wine that is too cold weakens the chalky flavor.