Chateau Margaux
Today, there are few properties in the Bordeaux region that have retained their appearance from four centuries ago. However, Château Margaux is an exception. Located in Médoc, this estate has never been significantly expanded or subdivided and has a winemaking history spanning more than 500 years. This is a First Growth, owned by the Mentzelopoulos family and situated in the village that bears the name of the Margaux appellation.
There are three wines named after this vineyard in various forms. These are the grand vin, Château Margaux, the second wine, Pavillon Rouge, and the white wine, Pavillon Blanc. These wines are backed by a dedicated research and development department, a resource rarely found at other châteaux. As a result, while the estate values tradition, it is by no means stagnant.
From grain fields to First Growth
In the 12th century, this area was known as La Mothe de Margaux and was managed exclusively for the royal family. There were no grapevines at that time. The transition from grain cultivation to wine production generally dates back to the era of Pierre de Lestonnac, who reorganized the estate over a period of about 10 years, from 1572 to 1582.
In the 1600s, vineyard development continued under the leadership of the d'Auledes family, and by the end of that century, the estate had reached its current size.
Then came 1855. At the Paris Exhibition tasting that determined the classifications, Margaux received a perfect score of 20 out of 20, taking first place ahead of Lafite and Latour, which both scored 19 points. It was subsequently awarded the First Growth classification, which has never been changed since.
The 20th century was not without its challenges. In the 1970s, the estate entered a period of decline, but it began to recover in 1977 when the Mentzelopoulos family took over management. Paul Pontallier was appointed technical director in 1983 at the age of 27 and remained in that position until his death, taking the lead in making the subtle adjustments necessary to restore Château Margaux to its status as one of Bordeaux's preeminent estates.
Alexandra Mentzelopoulos, as the next-generation leader, is active across Paris, Bordeaux, and London.
265 hectares, and vines on only part of it
The total area of Château Margaux is 265 hectares. Approximately 100 hectares of that are planted with grapevines. The remaining land consists of buildings, parks, forests, and meadows; although this is a vast expanse of non-income-generating land, the estate has never even considered planting crops there.
Red grape varieties account for slightly more than 80 hectares of the total cultivated area. This figure has remained virtually unchanged for some three and a half centuries. As early as 1680, the vineyard area was already approximately 75 hectares, and it has remained at a similar level ever since.
The château itself is located in the Margaux appellation, and right next to it stands a small St Michel church where the former owner, Bernard Ginestet, is buried.
The grape varieties
Like most Médoc estates, Château Margaux also builds its red blend around Cabernet Sauvignon. The supporting varieties are the classic Left Bank set:
- The core Cabernet Sauvignon, which in some years has accounted for as much as the high 80s percent
- Merlot, which makes up the bulk of the fruit
- Cabernet Franc, which typically makes up a smaller proportion
- Petit Verdot, which accounts for an even smaller proportion, sometimes makes up less than 1%
White grapes have also been part of the estate for a long time. Separating the white and red grapes at harvest was one of this winery's early innovations, dating back to the days when the two varieties were planted together in the same vineyard.
Winemaking at Chateau Margaux
It can be said that Château Margaux's modern winemaking began with a cellar master named Berlon. He was the first person here to ferment red and white grapes separately, rather than blending all the grapes together. He also refused to harvest in the early morning because he believed the dew on the grapes diluted their color and flavor. Though it was a simple observation, the results were significant.
This habit of thinking before acting continues to this day. The winery does not rush to adopt new technologies but carefully reviews each step before implementing it. Nevertheless, it maintains a permanent research and development team and has achieved pioneering accomplishments in both the vineyards and the facilities.
Selection forms the other half of this story. Paul Pontallier described his work primarily as tasting; he would repeatedly conduct blind tastings to identify any nuances he might have missed previously, and then decide which lots to include in the grand vin.
The numbers alone reveal just how rigorous this process is. With an annual production of approximately 11,000 cases of the first wine and 9,600 cases of the second wine, a significant portion of the harvest does not make it into bottles bearing the Château Margaux label.
The three wines
Château Margaux is a grand vin, a red wine known as First Growth. This wine is at the heart of the entire selection process.
Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux is a second wine made from grapes not included in the grand vin. Second wine is merely a technical term and not a measure of quality; it refers to a different style of wine produced from the same vineyard but generally ready to drink sooner.
Pavillon Blanc du Château Margaux is a white wine; it is rare even within the Médoc First Growths lineup and is worth special mention. It is unusual for this winery, well-known for its Cabernet-based red wine, to produce a traditional white wine; however, given the winery's history of growing white grapes, this practice has deep roots.
The best vintages of Chateau Margaux
The legendary vintages of the Grand Vin are: 1870, 1893, 1899, 1900, 1928, 1929, 1953, 1982, 1983, 1985, 1990, 1995, 1996, 2000, 2003, 2005, 2009, 2010, 2015, 2016 and 2018.
Frequently asked questions
Can you visit Château Margaux?
Cellar visits are by appointment only, Monday to Friday. The estate is closed at weekends, on public holidays, during August and through the harvest, and tastings are reserved for trade professionals.
Where exactly is the estate?
In the village of Margaux in the Médoc, postcode 33460, southwest France. Administrative offices are in Paris, on avenue Montaigne.
What is Château Margaux known for in the glass?
Elegance and finesse, above raw power. Those are the traits its best vintages are judged on, and they are notoriously hard for other estates to copy.
