Readers will note that the score range I've provided for Chave's 2020 Hermitage is much broader than typical. That's because my ratings for the numerous barrel samples tasted varied considerably, with one lot scoring as low as (91 - 93), while others were near-perfect (98 - 100). I should be able to provide a more precise picture following my next visit, but it was clear to me that—even more than usual—much will depend on Jean-Louis's skills at selection and blending. From the soft, elegant and red-fruited Péléat to the commanding, dark-fruited and mineral-laden Bessards—and the silky, finesseful and raspberry-laden Le Méal in between—there's no doubt a fine expression of Hermitage will eventually emerge from Chave's cellars.
BOW (8.75)
Vinous (98)
Tasted in components, before the final blending and rest before bottling, this wine is shaping up to be monumental, and it's from a domaine that has made far more than a few remarkable wines. There's intense dark fruit, suave floral and exotic spice character and a deep, energizing core of minerality, plus hints of olive, botanical herbs, licorice and smoked meat. But ultimately, it mainly focuses on powerful, vibrant fruit and floral qualities, making it a particularly elegant rendition of the appellation. I can't wait to see the bottled result.
Jeb Dunnuck (98)
Moving to the reds from bottle, both these 2020s have incredibly concentrated, pure, focused styles that remind me of 2010. The 2020 Hermitage is inky hued, with sensational notes of red, blue, and black fruit as well liquid rock, graphite, burning embers, saddle leather, and hints of candied orange zest. It's a massive, concentrated, powerful wine, yet it stays balanced, has a good sense of freshness, building tannins, and a great finish. As with most great vintages here, it's going to need a decade of bottle age to shed its baby fat and will be a classic Hermitage to enjoy over the following 30 years or so.
