Nuits Saint Georges Clos de la Marechale 2005 (Magnum)Mugnier J.F.
|Region||Burgundy, Cotes de Nuits|
The Mugnier family’s sprawling, gently-sloping 24-acre monopole just south of Premeaux-Prissey (managed and vinified by Faiveley until 2004) presents Frederic Mugnier with significant challenges. A small but symptomatic question is where to put it in the tasting line-up. Mugnier has decided to let it stand on its own at the end, a gutsy decision, but in the case of the 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges Clos de la Marechale justified in the glass. The sheer volume of wine from these vines of forty years’ average age requires not just the new larger cellar, but its own strategy of assemblage (from 2004 Mugnier bottled a second wine; in 2005 there were eight initial lots), as well as marketing. But at least here’s one worthy 2005 Burgundy lovers stand a good chance of locating! What was virtually certain at the time of my visit to be the final assemblage of 2005 Clos de la Marechale offered aromas of red raspberry and smoked meats. In the mouth, effusively sweet, ripe, but very primary fruit flavors struggle to override the abundant, firm tannins and mingle with a tactile chalk dust minerality as though the nearby quarries were directly responsible. This is another Mugnier 2005 of palpably high extract, but this time with a sense of weight that does not accrue to the Chambolles. A salty, meaty side to this emerges most prominently in the long finish. Better post-assemblage integration may come soon, and more personality after a few years in bottle – certainly the invigoratingly fresh-fruited 2004 is a complete, distinct and satisfying wine today – but any prognostication would be premature since there is as yet no track record for this site in its owner’s hands.