Professionele reviews
Robert Parker (98)
The 2023 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay leads with an abundance of smoky, nutty, savory reduction. Here, the 2023 feels less exotic and softly spoken than the 2022 tasted alongside, with the 2023 showing more tension and focus. Neither has the extraordinary, otherworldly character of the 2021, also tasted alongside, yet the differences between the three is almost as exciting as having three vintages of Giaconda Chardonnay open at the same time. The 2023 only gets better the longer it is opened, revealing white peach, curry leaf, pink grapefruit acidity, blood orange, coffee grounds, graphite and mustard seeds. What a wine. The sheer intensity of flavor here is astonishing—it penetrates the palate and soars long into the memory. Far from pinching the finish, the reduction provokes a physical response, one that requires more drinking to satiate. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
I recently tasted this wine blind in Burgundy (2022 vintage), and while the wine was immediately recognizable to me, it really showed the specific personality of reduction at this estate, as compared to the others tasted that evening. The comparison was fascinating, in that Giaconda was revealed to be very savory, backed by voluminous, exotic fruit, while the other wines showed more verdancy to their fruit profiles, which in turn influenced the reduction. Fascinating and valuable.
I also tasted this wine as its component parts when I visited the estate in January 2024, and seeing each of the barrels as individuals and then now witnessing the holistic conglomeration of them is very cool. The wine makes more sense to me, and it's infinitely more kaleidoscopic
James Suckling (98)
Despite the infamously difficult 2023 vintage, Giaconda has pulled off another excellent world-class chardonnay. Aromas of lemons, struck match and granite as well as grapefruit peel, lime curd and nectarines. The seamlessly balanced palate shows striking acidity. The creamy, textured mouthfeel finishes with great power and intensity, supported by a salty mineral undertone. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
Vinous (97)
The enthralling 2023 Chardonnay Estate presents a more reductive expression from Giaconda. Smoky, gunflint aromas take the lead, set against a background of compact white peach and nectarine, with subtle citrus zest and a healthy serve of French oak. This is a more cerebral expression, with punchy acidity driving a long, laser-like, embryonic palate that is powerful, acid-driven and youthful. The 2023 is exceptional, though it slightly lacks the volume of flavour found in the best vintages.
Jasper Morris (97)
Struck match and dehydrated lime set the scene along with some delicate fine cedar. A swirl of the glass unlocks lime juice, woodsmoke, almond miel, a dusting of nutmeg, white peach and crushed rock minerality. The amalgam is a profile of complexity and drive, but also uncharacteristic restraint. The palate has a surprisingly mouth-coating and fulsome texture wrapping around flint, fresh lime juice, fine cedar, grilled peach, dried pear and cashew with trademark architectural structure thanks to vertical chalk-laced phenolics and persistent acidity. Some brine-like tang and curry leaf in the background. There's brilliant length here, with the wine fanning out through the back palate. The trademark power is paired back a bit here, but it holds the classic Giaconda complexity, detail and length. It's focused and precise now, with time in the cellar sure to see this reveal its true potential. Drink from 2025-2035. Tasted May 2025.
