Las Umbrías 2022 Comando G

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Robert Parker (95)

I tasted two vintages of many of the single-vineyard wines, 2022 and 2023, as some 2022s had an extended élevage, spending extra time in concrete to polish them, because they felt some wines needed it in a warmer year. That's the case with this 2022 Las Umbrías; it spent three winters in the winery instead of two, the extra time in concrete. This is one of the most chameleon-like wines, greatly marked by the character of the years. It has the profile of the warmer years, closer to 2020 after the most unusual 2021, a little earthier, with slightly grainier tannins, especially when tasted next to the 2023. But it still has the elegance of Umbrías, the iron-like sensations from Rozas de Puerto Real and the balance and subtleness. 2,809 bottles produced. It was bottled in February 2025.