Professionelle Bewertungen
Robert Parker (96)
Aged on the full lees over two winters and racked in late July this year (so after 22 months sur lie), the 2019 Monte Vacano is deep, intense and refined on the iodine and flinty, highly complex and precise nose that represents the phyllite terroir of the steep Lay plot of the Gräfenberg amazingly well, especially after a day in the opened bottle. On the palate, this is a highly elegant, crystalline, enormously complex, dense, round and rich as well as juicy Riesling that reveals a firm and sustainable structure with fine tannins from renewed large oak barrels that also add a certain sweetness to the finish that is enormously salty, long and tensioned. This is another impressive Riesling from the Gräfenberg, and it is richer and more powerful than the more filigreed Burg Scharfensteiner. But is it the "better" wine? The 2019 Monte Vacano seems to be even richer than the gorgeous, inaugural 2018. The palate, though enormously salty, still trails behind the precise nose at this early stage, but since this is a wine to be aged, this is nothing to worry about. The wine is currently offered for 140 euros through subscription and will be delivered in April next year. Tasted in August 2021.
James Suckling (99)
This starts as discreetly as Ravel’s Bolero, the peachy aromas of the Rheingau now just beginning to emerge from behind their veil of yeast from the long maturation in barrel. Then this wine, like Bolero, steadily climbs to a very exciting and expressive conclusion. Then you experience the mineral side of this grape and region in great purity.
