Professional reviews
Robert Parker (97)
Closed in style and character like the 2013, Taittinger's 2014 Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne reveals aromas of ripe orchard fruit, confit citrus, dried flowers, herbs, spring blossoms and mirabelle mingled with customary autolytic notes. Full-bodied, seamless and enrobing, it has a delicate, elegant, fleshy core of fruit and racy acids, all enhanced by a saline, fresh and penetrating finish marked by finesse and elegance. This refined, chalky-inflected Comtes de Champagne has the potential to age gracefully over the next 30-40 years.
James Suckling (97)
Apricots, hazelnuts, lemons, white flowers, sliced almonds and hints of licorice on the nose. It's creamy and layered, with soft, rounded bubbles that spread across the palate. Lovely balance of breadth, ripeness and freshness, with delicious wildflower honey and nut notes lingering. 100% grand cru chardonnay from Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Oger, Cramant and Chouilly. Drink or hold.
Jancis Robinson (17.50)
Not just toast but that grilled sourdough aroma you get in fancy cafés – mouth-watering! Savoury umami notes too: perhaps there's Marmite on that toast. Crunchy green-apple fruit which is surprisingly perky for its age, and a lighter body than I remember from previous vintages of this. The autolytic complexity continues on the palate, while the fruit becomes more like lemon sherbet. Not quite a long finish yet: this feels like there is more to unfurl. Wonderfully clean and lifted, none of the dried fruit of some vintage champagnes. (RH)
Vinous (97)
The 2014 Comtes de Champagne is pristine. In this tasting, it comes across as a mini-2008, similar in its linear personality, with just a touch more mid-palate creaminess. Readers will find a Comtes that plays in the realm of tension and energy. Citrus confit, white flowers, chalk, mint and chamomile are all finely sketched. Light tropical overtones grace the finish. What an absolute delight. The 2014 can be enjoyed now or cellared. Dosage is 9 grams per liter.
