Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva Blanco 2004 is a white Rioja Gran Reserva from Lopez de Heredia, out of a year the Rioja Regulatory Council rated Excellent. Gran Reserva Blanco is not released every year. Lopez de Heredia bottles it only in the vintages it judges best, and only from the best vines in Viña Tondonia, a vineyard planted in 1913 and 1914. Therefore, the 2004 vintage is a wine that has undergone two rigorous selection processes.
What makes this wine special is the exceptionally long time it takes to reach consumers. The wines here are stored in the winery's cellars until the family deems them ready to drink; in the case of white wines, this can take more than 10 years before release. By the time the 2004 vintage is uncorked, most of this wine's aging process has already taken place in Haro, rather than in private cellars. This is the key. It also explains why the 2004 Rioja white wine exudes aromas reminiscent of a significantly older wine while still feeling structurally firm.
Robert Parker (100)
I was very much looking forward to the 2004 Viña Tondonia Blanco Gran Reserva, the next vintage of this wine after the spectacular 2001. 2004 was a perfect climate year. This is a developed white that was matured in well-seasoned, neutral American oak barrels for 10 years in their old caves, where the wine gets pungent aromas of mushrooms, pollen, beeswax, white pepper, kerosene, cereals and something herbal (celery and even asparagus) that reminded me of the 1964. The palate is velvety and dry and super tasty, with a salty twist in the finish. It's still a baby even after years in bottle. This should age superbly in bottle. I think this is slightly better than the 2001, one of the freshest and most elegant vintages for this bottling. Bravo! 10,000 bottles were filled in November 2018. Before and after aging in barrel, the Gran Reserva wines also spend some time in oak vats.
James Suckling (99)
What a vinous white that’s reticent and full of power and depth. Aromas of butterscotch, waxed lemons, macadamia nuts, saffron and honey, and there is also something intricately smoky with roasted sweet potato. Full-bodied but there is no heft, with lots of brightness. I like the phenolic twist at the end, before a persistent finish that goes on for almost a minute. Incredible. A true beauty. This was aged for 10 years in old barrels before bottling. Drinkable now, but will age really beautifully over the next 10 to 20 years.
Vinous (96)
The 2004 Blanco Gran Reserva Viña Tondonia is a delicate, unique white wine crafted in the old-school Rioja style. It showcases the enduring legacy of the Tondonia Vineyard, situated along the meander of the Ebro River. Aged for a remarkable ten years in oak barrels before being bottled in 2014 and held in the catacomb-like cellar of López de Heredia, this amber-hued wine reveals a complex array of aromas. Notes of hops, honey and hazelnut intertwine with hints of resin, dried apricot and tangerine. On the palate, it offers a dry, silky texture with a chalky undertone, delivering a slightly concentrated character reminiscent of sherry. This wine is a delicious oddity, seamlessly blending the past and present of white winemaking in Rioja.
Tim Atkin (100)
