Joseph Drouhin
Most Burgundy names sit on one side of the fence, either grower or négociant. Joseph Drouhin has worked both sides from the start, out of the same address in Beaune at 7 Rue d'Enfer, with cellars underneath.
Vineyard holdings run from Chablis in the north down to the Mâconnais, weighted heavily towards premier and grand cru land, and farming across them is organic and biodynamic. Frédéric Drouhin is president of the house; Véronique Drouhin is the family voice in the cellar. Elegance and balance are how they describe what they are after, rather than power. And the family went to Oregon long before that was a normal move for a Burgundy house.
A Chablis man who moved to Beaune
Joseph Drouhin is originally from the Chablis region. In 1880, he settled in Beaune instead, and the business has borne his name ever since.
From its inception, the company has not only owned vineyards but also purchased grapes, serving simultaneously as both a winemaker and a négociant (wine merchant). The family has expanded its land holdings over generations, and the winery remains a family-run business to this day.
Here, Beaune holds a significance that goes beyond a mere office address. Below the town lies a historic wine cellar with even an original Roman tower; Maison Joseph Drouhin accepts advance reservations through Oenothèque to open the cellar for tours and tastings. The Hospices de Beaune is also a long-standing family tradition.
The Oregon venture came later. The Drouhin family was one of the first Burgundian families to plant grapevines in the Willamette Valley region, and Domaine Drouhin Oregon is still operated by the family today.
Roughly a hundred hectares, sixty appellations
The total area under cultivation is around 100 hectares, stretching from the Chablis to the Mâcon areas, covering approximately 90 appellations, including 14 Grand Crus and 20 Premier Crus.
Approximately 20 hectares have been added through two acquisitions in recent years. One of these is Château de Chasselas, located in Saint-Véran, consisting of approximately 7 hectares within that appellation and small parcels in Chasselas and Beaujolais, and was already a major source for this house's Saint-Véran wine. The other is the Rapet vineyard, located in Saint-Romain, which includes approximately 8 hectares of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, as well as the Auxey-Duresses red and white wines, plus scattered plots from Pommard and Meursault.
Frédéric Drouhin candidly explained the reasons: Burgundy is small in scale, competition for grapes is becoming increasingly fierce, and land prices in Puligny and Chambolle have become prohibitively expensive. Saint-Romain had no reputation, but that was precisely why it was inexpensive.
All newly acquired plots are being converted to organic farming, just like the remaining plots.
The terroir
Joseph Drouhin's appellations span a wide range of climate zones. Chablis is located much further north than Côte d'Or, and Mâconnais is much further south, with Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune in between, comprising most of the Grand Cru and Premier Cru vineyards.
Saint-Romain illustrates where this philosophy is headed. Temperatures here tend to be lower than in Meursault or Beaune, which can be a disadvantage at times and an advantage at others.
Biodynamic farming is not merely a matter of paperwork; it shapes the very practice of viticulture itself. From vine cultivation to bottling, this winery adheres to the principle of listening to the vineyard's voice and refraining from forced intervention.
The grape varieties
Burgundy limits the permitted grape varieties, and Joseph Drouhin follows this almost entirely:
- Chardonnay: All grapevines from Chablis to Corton Charlemagne and the white grapevines in Mâconnais
- Pinot Noir: The entire areas of Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune
- Gamay: Small parcels in the Chasselas and Beaujolais vineyards: Acquired along with the purchase of Saint-Véran
The winemaking
Most red and white wines are aged in 30 percent new oak, which is a relatively low percentage for a wine of this grade.
Red wines generally undergo a cuvaison, the period during which the juice remains in contact with the skins, for about three weeks. For white wines, the intensity of bâtonnage, the stirring of the lees, is adjusted based on the condition of the lees in a given year. If the lees are already very fine, the frequency of stirring is reduced.
Bottling proceeds in order of classification. While many white wines are bottled in the summer following the harvest, the top-tier Premier Crus and Grands Crus are kept in oak barrels until the end of the year.
At the vineyard, Jullien Pallisse has served as the vineyard manager since 2017.
Where the grand crus sit
Since Joseph Drouhin produces wine from approximately 60 appellations, the wines introduced below rank among the very best in a much broader product lineup that includes village wines, Chablis, Saint-Véran, Saint-Romain and Mâconnais. Chablis holds a unique position alongside Drouhin Vaudon, the house's Chablis estate.
The rest of the lineup includes Clos de Vougeot, as well as other Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune crus, and the Oregon wines under the Domaine Drouhin designation.
Frequently asked questions
Is Joseph Drouhin a domaine or a négociant?
Both, and it has been since 1880. The house owns vines and also buys grapes, which is how it covers so many appellations.
Where is Joseph Drouhin based, and can you visit?
At 7 Rue d'Enfer in Beaune. Cellar tours and tastings run by appointment through the Oenothèque, and vineyard tours are offered too.
Is the farming certified organic?
Joseph Drouhin works organically and biodynamically across its vineyards, and parcels bought more recently are being converted to organic as well.
Does the family make wine outside Burgundy?
Yes. Domaine Drouhin Oregon, in the Willamette Valley, is the family's American project and one of the earliest Burgundian ventures there.
Regions
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