Aubert
Many people from Napa grow up believing that Cabernet Sauvignon is the major grape for wines taking seriously. Mark Aubert took the opposite approach. While he respects Cabernet, he decided early on that Chardonnay was the area worth fighting for, and for decades he has pursued Burgundy-level quality in California. Most of the fruit is produced in Sonoma County rather than Napa, because the state's best Chardonnay vineyards are primarily located there. Aubert also produces Pinot Noir, and the same meticulous approach is evident there as well. It is a small-batch, single-vineyard bottled wine for which demand consistently outstrips supply. Aubert has built its reputation on its own, without the backing of large corporations, an achievement that is becoming increasingly rare in the valley.
A Montrachet that changed the plan
Mark Aubert grew up in Napa Valley and still lives near his hometown of St. Helena. By his own admission, he is highly attracted to White Burgundy. He brought a bottle of 1986 Louis Latour Bâtard-Montrachet to a blind date, and it seems to have worked: in 2018, he and Teresa celebrated their 25th wedding anniversary.
However, the bottle that steered his career in a new direction was a 1990 Comtes Lafon Montrachet. From that point on, his goal became clear: to create a California Chardonnay that could stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the finest white wines of Burgundy.
Since the late 1990s, Aubert has been realizing this ambition in a systematic manner. The Lauren vineyard was established in 2000 and named after his daughter. Thanks to the steady success that followed, Aubert has established itself as one of the most sought-after brands among collectors in California.
The vineyards
The vineyard map of Aubert tells the story of Sonoma, while Napa serves as a footnote. With a few exceptions, Sonoma County is the core growing region for California's top-tier Chardonnay, and most of the grapes are produced here.
Lauren is a private vineyard: approximately 3.2 hectares in size, it was planted in 2000. It is so small that it can be walked around in a single afternoon, allowing one to survey every row of vines.
Sugar Shack Estate Vineyard is located within Napa Valley and serves as an exception that proves the rule: Aubert faces west toward Chardonnay. Carneros is represented by Larry Hyde and Sons, situated in the cooler region between the two valleys. This clearly illustrates the winery's philosophy: to separate vineyard blocks, bottle them individually, and highlight their distinct characteristics.
Two grapes
Aubert handles only two grape varieties: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
The wines are single-varietal, not blends. For example, CIX Chardonnay is made from 100% Chardonnay grapes grown in the Sonoma Coast vineyard.
Winemaking
The word that is constantly mentioned in connection with Aubert is precision. This is not in a marketing sense, but in terms of schedule management. Mark Aubert conducts grape harvesting, pressing, and cellar work according to a schedule that is practically down to the minute, emphasizing that every task must be performed at the right moment, not simply when it is convenient.
Thanks to this strict discipline, these wines maintain a consistent level of quality even across vastly different growing seasons. Whether the year is hot, cool, or dry, the quality remains virtually unchanged.
In terms of style, these wines are a far cry from the delicate and restrained Chardonnay style. The influence of oak is distinct, the texture is rich, and wines like CIX can reach an alcohol content of 15%. Aubert never tries to hide the ripeness of the fruit.
However, the Burgundy philosophy, managing each vineyard separately to bring out its unique character, remains a guiding principle. Achieving both power and nuance is not as easy as it sounds.
The wines
Chardonnay makes up the bulk of production and is bottled separately by vineyard. Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard is produced from a vineyard named after Aubert's daughter. Chardonnay Sugar Shack Estate is Napa Valley. Chardonnay Larry Hyde and Sons Vineyard Carneros inherits the fruity characteristics of the refreshing Carneros, while UV-SL Chardonnay, Eastside Vineyard Chardonnay, Powder House Chardonnay, and CIX Chardonnay make up the Sonoma series.
Although Pinot Noir is a small part of the winery, it is by no means inferior in quality. UV Pinot Noir, UV-SL Pinot Noir, and Park Avenue Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir are wines worth noting.
The total production of Aubert's includes Chardonnays, a single-vineyard wine produced in greater quantities than appears on any single list, and the lineup varies depending on vineyard contracts and vintage changes. While production is low across the board, demand is by no means low.
Frequently asked questions
Where is Aubert based?
Mark Aubert is a Napa Valley native and still lives near St. Helena, but most of the grapes come from Sonoma County, including the Sonoma Coast, plus Carneros and one Napa Valley site.
Is Aubert only a Chardonnay producer?
No. Chardonnay is the focus and the reason for the winery's reputation, but Aubert also makes single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Sonoma.
Why are the wines so hard to find?
Production is small, split across many individual vineyard bottlings, and Aubert has built what the trade openly calls a cult following. Allocations sell out fast.
What is the style like?
Rich and full-bodied, oak-influenced, often around 15% alcohol, but built on precise vineyard work so each site keeps its own character. The reference point is white Burgundy, not an imitation of it.
