Professional reviews
BOW (87)
In the vast world of Scotch whisky, the Mortlach Distillery stands as a beacon of distinctive character and robust flavor. The 11 Years Old expression, bottled by independent bottler Hunter Laing for the Hepburn's Choice series, takes us on a sensorial journey that unfolds the artistry of maturation in two Wine Hogsheads. Limited to a mere 715 bottles, this release is a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship that defines both Mortlach and Hunter Laing.
The Maturation Dance:
Distilled in 2009 and gracefully bottled in 2020, this Mortlach expression spent 11 years maturing in the embrace of two Wine Hogsheads. The influence of these casks imparts a unique interplay of flavors, adding a layer of complexity that elevates the whisky to new heights.
Tasting Notes:
Nose:
As you approach the glass, a gummy base sets the stage for a symphony of aromas. The meaty undertones and veggie tendencies reveal themselves with notes of green peppers, tomatoes, and fresh tomato greens. Root vegetable nuances, from earthy carrots to beetroot and celeriac, create a vibrant and savory bouquet. Fortunately, the nose is balanced by fruity wine gum flavors, including raspberries, a touch of sour cherry, and tart gooseberries. The oak, while present, adds a bit of a stuffy character to the overall aromatic experience.
Taste:
The palate welcomes you with the elegance of Rosé wine, infused with the essence of raspberries and rhubarb. The initial moments are dominated by fruity highlights, reminiscent of English wine gums. The texture is very soft yet carries a subtle thinness. As you explore further, the barley introduces dirt spots on its rubber cap, and the worn-out impression of the wood becomes more apparent. Long, contemplative chewing reveals a subtle peat note, accompanied by a hint of ash that adds a layer of depth to the tasting experience.
Finish:
The finish, though rather short, leaves a lasting impression. Expressive oak and slightly retarding tannins from oversteeped rosehip tea intertwine with chopped raspberry kernels. Remnants of peel reinforce a furry impression, while a subtle gumminess lingers. The finale takes an unexpected turn towards a bland direction, reminiscent of celery boiling water with black peppercorns. A touch of minimal peat adds complexity, leaving behind an image of a small pile of musty compost soil with leftover vegetables.
Conclusion:
The Mortlach 11 Years Old Hepburn's Choice is a culinary symphony that showcases the multifaceted nature of this distinguished distillery. With only 715 bottles available, each sip unravels the layers of complexity derived from the dual maturation in Wine Hogsheads. From the savory and veggie undertones to the fruity highlights and subtle peat notes, this expression is a testament to the harmonious collaboration between Mortlach's spirit and Hunter Laing's expertise.
