A very, very elegant straight crystal decanter, without any vulgar carvings or unlikely ‘I’m trying too hard’ shape, that may have given quite a few ideas to the current marketing team at Edrington’s. In a way, it’s the first ‘M’ bottling. And it’s got a vintage, mind you. Colour: amber. Nose: sing, angels! Perfect combination of myriads of tiny aromas, such as hazelnuts, toasted bread, marmalade, figs, chestnut honey, old woods, cherry liqueur, sorb berries, dates, real chocolate, mocha, parsley, old leather, tallow, soot, chestnut purée, kuri squash, soy sauce… and umami! I may have only quoted around 10% of what’s in this nose. Mouth: exceptional, dry and sweet at the same time, with just everything we found in the nose. Now, raisins and marmalade do get on top of everything. What’s impressive is how lively and ‘vibrant’ it remains after all these years. Not all decanters don’t keep, apparently. Finish: rather long, surprisingly fresh, even a little gritty and herbal. Sultanas and herbs, barbecued fruits, and of course nuts and honeys. Perfect slightly smoky and tobacco-ish aftertaste, extremely ‘old Macallan’. Comments: totally superb. Whether there’s paxarette inside or not, that’s not our concern. These bottles did build the category, by managing to appeal to drinkers of ripe old cognacs. That’s been Scotch’s story since the phylloxera anyway.
