Ardbeg 13 Years Old M.Wigman They Inspired III Whisky Icons Roland Puhl 53.3% 2009

Professional reviews

Serge Valentin (92)

It says 210 bottles but that's a misprint. They've also quoted Roland Puhl (R.I.P.): 'a robust dram but excellent gulp', which, according to high-ranked persons who are very close to the bottlers, would make it clear that this was Ardbeg. Roland Puhl was the co-founder of the seminal whisky shop 'Malt Rarities' a.k.a. MARA, which in turn originated Limburg's very famous Whisky Fair 'where more whisky has flown than water in the nearby river Lahn' (but don't quote me). Roland was a formidable human being. Colour: white wine. Even the colour makes you think of 'beg. Nose: sublimely pure indeed, with massive iodine, chalk, seaweed, this funny coastal plant that we often find in Ardbeg, samphire, then oysters and these tarry ashes that leave little doubt indeed. Totally crystalline, our favourite style. With water: this is where white wines are kicking in, especially the most petroly rieslings. Plus the expected bandages, embrocations and ointments, although I wouldn't call it 'medicinal'. Mouth (neat): this famous feeling of having mistakenly wolved down the content of an ashtray around 4 in the morning, plus some mercurochrome, white pepper, green lemons (not lime) and just seawater. Also white currants. It's a blade. With water: geared towards ultra-tight, salty fino sherry. Finish: very long, still ultra-tight, never losing focus. Salted lemon juice, oysters, ashes etc in an aftertaste that would leave your mouth fresh as baby's, despite all the smoke and ashes. Comments: these are why we believe Ardbeg remains one of the grands crus of Scotch malt whisky. I'm sure Roland is happy.

Words of Whisky (90)

Nose: Rather gentle. Mature almost. It opens up on crisp notes of lemon and whiffs of tinned peaches, combined with chalk, petrol, bandaids, and nori. There’s an almost dry minerality here too. Lingering in the background are soft malty notes, like smoked barley husks, but also touches of dried grass and a sliver of iodine. Oh, and some sour beer too.
Taste: Medium viscosity. Hints of ashy embers, charred lemon peel, and white pepper, but also just a briny overall feel. A whisper of iodine accompanied by wood smoke, salty oysters, and hemp ropes.
Finish: Long and ashy with a few drops of seawater and lemon.

CONCLUSION
Very precise, very crisp, and very Ardbeg. A mature, balanced nose. The palate is livelier and more fitting of this single malt's age. And the finish is just very long and memorable. Although heavily-peated whisky will never become my preferred style, this was quite a treat.

BOW (92)

Unveiling the Enigma of Secret Islay: M. Wigman They Inspired III Whisky Icons Roland Puhl 53.3% ABV

The world of whisky holds a host of expressions that bewitch the senses and leave an indelible mark on connoisseurs. Among these enigmatic offerings is the Secret Islay, an undisclosed 13-year-old Ardbeg whisky, bottled in February 2023 by the esteemed Dutch independent bottler Michiel Wigman. In this article, we embark on a journey to unravel the allure of this exceptional whisky and explore the inspiration behind its creation.

The M. Wigman They Inspired III Whisky Icons Roland Puhl 53.3% ABV:
The Secret Islay belongs to the esteemed M. Wigman They Inspired III Whisky Icons collection, paying homage to the vision and artistry of revered whisky icon Roland Puhl. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, this expression showcases Michiel Wigman's expertise as an independent bottler.

Tasting Notes:
As we delve into the tasting notes of Secret Islay, we encounter a complex and captivating profile that embodies the allure of Islay whiskies.

Nose:
The aroma unveils a symphony of smoky notes reminiscent of a peat-laden bonfire on a coastal shore. Rich and robust, maritime influences intertwine with briny sea spray. Subtle layers of dark chocolate, toasted oak, and a touch of vanilla contribute depth and complexity to the bouquet.

Taste:
On the palate, Secret Islay reveals a bold and harmonious fusion of flavors. Intense peat smoke envelops the taste buds, accompanied by a medley of charred oak and earthy undertones. Waves of salted caramel and toffee provide a sweet counterbalance to the smoky intensity. With each sip, the complexity deepens, revealing underlying hints of black pepper and spices.

Finish:
The finish is lingering and prolonged, leaving behind remnants of smoldering embers and a briny sea breeze. The interplay of sweet and smoky notes continues to dance on the palate, inviting contemplation and reflection.

Conclusion:
Secret Islay, a remarkable creation by Michiel Wigman, offers whisky enthusiasts a tantalizing glimpse into the mysterious and revered world of Islay malts. This undisclosed 13-year-old Ardbeg whisky showcases the art of independent bottling and the unwavering dedication of the Dutch bottler in curating exceptional expressions.

With its captivating smoky aromas, complex flavors, and enduring finish, Secret Islay embodies the very essence of Islay's peaty character. It stands as a testament to Michiel Wigman's craftsmanship and passion, as he carefully selects and bottles this exceptional expression.

Whether savored in solitude or shared among whisky aficionados, Secret Islay invites you on a sensory expedition brimming with intrigue and discovery. It serves as a testament to the enduring allure of Islay whiskies and the artistry of independent bottlers like Michiel Wigman, who continue to inspire and captivate with their extraordinary creations.

Malt Fascination (91)

This entire thing I’m doing (and many others with me) of whisky blogging is really fun, quite a bit of work and sometimes utterly confusing. Sometimes you try something that you expect everyone to love and it just falls flat. Sometimes it’s the other way around.

Some of these situations, but not many, can be attributed to shit samples that have been tainted in some way. Sometimes a whisky just takes more than a little 2cl sample to get through, or to make sense.

This is one of them.

I initially tried this after Michiel sent me a sample and I was not over the moon about it. Of course it was good, but not stellar. And stellar is something it had to be based on everyone else’s rave reviews. I chatted about this with GvB and he kindly gave me another sample, also stating how wrong I was. How he generally doesn’t care for Islay whiskies but bought two bottles of this and so on.

Oh, before I forget. It’s an Ardbeg whisky. It doesn’t say on the label, but this knowledge isn’t very hard to come by on the internet.

Of course, doing my due diligence, I tried it again, with the following result.

Sniff:
It’s quintessential Islay with lots of grass, seaweed, salinity, and pepper. Slightly ashy with a rather intense peatiness. If you’d imagine heavily peated Rosebank, this’d be it. There is soot and some oak shavings too.

Sip:
The palate is highly consistent with the nose, but packs a surprising punch. The notes of white pepper and harsh woody notes are amped up. Accompanied by apple, straw, salinity and brine. Also, quite intensely smoky, and quite intensely coastal. Charcoal, walnut shells and ash.

Swallow:
The finish is, again, consistent. Very clean, very smoky, very spirit driven. Lots of white pepper, lots of straw.

I really don’t get how I didn’t seem to understand this whisky at first. Especially since it’s the style of Islay whisky that I really enjoy but haven’t encountered for ages. The ‘heavily peated, slightly briny Lowlands’ stuff that this one has going on in oodles. This is what Islay whisky used to be all about in years long gone. Maybe I had forgotten? Maybe my palate took a sick day without telling me?

Anyway, of course it’s long gone, especially since Serge Valentin gave it 92 points. That means they fly off any shelf they’re on regardless of price. I