Nikka Taketsuru 21 Years Old Pure Malt 2010 edition 43% NV

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BOW (89.50)

Taketsuru Japanese Pure Malt from the Nikka house—a composition of single malts from both Yoichi and Miyagikyo—is nothing short of symphonic genius.

Nose: It opens with an orchestral prelude of tropical fruits—pineapple, mango, passion fruit, and orange—each note rounded and vibrant. There’s a delicate interplay with pipe tobacco and praline-filled chocolate, balanced by a nutty underpinning. A whisper of balsamic, a trace of umami broth, and—yes—a faint iron tang of blood give it a bold complexity. A fleeting touch of woodsmoke and a curious dusty nuance tease the edges of the sensory experience.

Palate: The performance crescendos into a sweet, creamy wave of tropical delight, now broadened with plums, grapefruit, walnuts, and fresh figs. But the sweetness is tempered, counterpointed by a vivid spice overture of black pepper, cinnamon, and cardamom. A smoky undercurrent, like lapsang souchong tea, rises confidently, taking the palate to new heights.

Finish: Just as you think the show’s over, a final flourish of fresh menthol graces the medium-long finish, leaving a clean and invigorating encore.

If single malts are individual instruments and blends their collective symphony, this is a masterpiece of harmony and complexity, conducted with expert precision. One for the ages.