Talking Wine with …

Talking Wine with …

Romana Echensperger, Master of Wine, Wine journalist, book author, wine lecturer...

In our interview series Talking Wine with ... we talk to prominent experts from the international wine and gastronomy scene as well as private wine lovers about their vinophile passion.

We are very proud to have been able to interview Romana Echensperger. After graduating as a wine consultant, Romana Echensperger quickly made a name for herself in the international wine industry as head sommelier in top restaurants. Her journey to becoming a Master of Wine began in 2010. Since 2015, she has been one of just over 400 people in the world to hold this title.

Romana Echensperger MW is a sought-after wine lecturer and journalist. She also caused a sensation in 2020 with ‘On the Freedom to Make the Right Wine’, her book about biodynamic winegrowers.

Romana Echensberger MW talks to Best of Wines about her path to becoming a Master of Wine, her life as a wine expert and her biodynamic book.

Winepassport Romana Echensperger MW

Favourite producer: Claire Villars-Lurton of Haut Bages Libéral (Pauillac)

Favourite wine region: Bordeaux

Favourite music for drinking wine: everything that pianist Alfred Brendel has recorded.

Favourite of Best of Wines stocklist: Craggy Range. I love New Zealand wines, among others. The wines from Craggy Range are always great.

ROMANA ECHENSPERGER

Many wine experts undergo continuous professional development - but only a few dare to take the very complex path to becoming a Master of Wine. Why did you decide to take on one of the most difficult challenges in the wine world?

I was always a little envious of people who studied at international universities. My parents are not academics. When I could have gone to grammar school back then, they said: ‘You'll get married anyway and then you can turn the dumplings into water in Latin.’ - We are from Bavaria. That was just the way it was. With the Master of Wine, I was able to fulfil a dream.

As a sommelier, you would have had the opportunity to become a Master Sommelier, wouldn't you? Why didn't you choose this path?

I realised that I didn't want to stay in the catering industry in the long term. That's why the MW programme was more appealing to me, with a focus on viticulture, cellar technology and marketing.

In 2010, you were able to enrol in the Institute of Masters of Wine (IMW). How did this change your everyday life?

You suddenly feel the pressure. Every day you discover a new gap in your knowledge and the many blind tastings are very humbling. You think - wow - that's 100% Sancerre - and then it's a Chardonnay from I don't know where. Some days you taste better, others worse. You have to endure that first.

Was it difficult to switch directly from German to English?

That was very difficult. I only had basic English from secondary school. At the beginning, I was stuck with a dictionary and looked up every 3-4 words. Then came the course days in London with some slightly older English Masters of Wine. They spoke a kind of ‘Shakespearean English’ - as if Hamlet was about to come round the corner... But there were a few French people sitting next to me who looked just as stupid as I did - that gave me courage again.

What were the biggest challenges for you at the beginning?

Getting the information. It's self-study - you get a rough timetable, but you have to organise the rest yourself.

Theory or practice - what was more difficult for you?

The most difficult part was the research paper with statistics and so on. I had 0 experience there. That was the most difficult part for me. I passed everything else easily.

How much does the Master of Wine programme actually cost? And how did you finance it?

How much does the Master of Wine programme actually cost? And how did you finance it?

Today I would estimate it at between 50,000 and 60,000 euros. The expensive part is not necessarily the course fees. It's the travelling, the wines you have to buy yourself for the blind tastings and the countless books that are expensive. If you do it, then you shouldn't care about a few thousand euros more or less.
I had saved up some money and then started working independently on the side. I also lowered my standard of living. That was good for a change.

How many hours a week did you study?

I took the first year off completely. I passed the theory test straight away - despite poor English at first. I spent about 8 hours a day cramming, writing essays and visiting wineries.

How can we imagine the final exams?

Like taking part in the Olympic Games. You prepare for ages and then you want it to start. The trials are high-performance sport. Over three mornings, you taste 12 wines blind and have to answer lots of questions about them. After a short break, there are 4 afternoons of theory. You have to write essays on viticulture, cellar technology, the business of wine and contemporary issues. You are under extreme pressure for 4 days in a row. After that, a stone falls off you. I can remember - we went for a beer at the end and after one glass of beer I was as drunk as if I had drunk a bottle of vodka. In short, writing this exam is an incredible experience.

Can you still remember the moment when you found out you'd passed?

Yes - absolutely. I was visiting my grandmother, who lived near Munich. The results are announced on a certain day. If you fail, you get an email - if you pass, you get a phone call. So from 7 a.m. you're glued to your smartphone and checking your emails every five seconds like a madwoman. The call came at 7.55am - UK dialling code - that's when I knew I'd passed. Then you pick up and a ‘very British’ voice says ‘On behalf of the Institute of Masters of Wine....’ That was really great. Afterwards we celebrated. As I said, I was with my grandmother, who has nothing to do with wine. I'm superstitious and didn't want to put anything special in the fridge as a precaution - so we toasted with Rotkäppchen sparkling wine. She had been given it as a present for her 80th birthday. No matter - the best drop ever!

How much did your life change in 2015 after passing the exam?

A lot. I'm able to fulfil myself very well in terms of self-employment in the wine industry. I've gained some great new customers. I'm now part of the Lufthansa tasting team, for example. I now have two children and can combine work and family very well. That really is a great gift.

You are now a highly sought-after wine expert. What do you specialise in?

Germany, France and, above all, the topic of sustainability. I'm working on fungus-resistant grape varieties - there's a lot going on there. Then, of course, biodynamic viticulture, which I've been working on intensively for over 15 years.

And then in 2020 you also wrote a book about biodynamic viticulture ...

It was important for me to show what is modern about ideas that are over 100 years old and supposedly esoteric. In the course of this, I've been working extremely intensively on agricultural history - it's as exciting as reading a thriller. The question of why agricultural chemistry has established itself as the hegemonic science in agricultural science is enlightening. The fertiliser issue in general, and here in particular artificial nitrogen with two functions. On the one hand, it is used as an artificial fertiliser in agriculture and, at the same time, it serves as a raw material for the war economy. If you want to shoot someone, you need nitrogen. So what would agriculture look like today if there hadn't been two world wars? It is very exciting to visualise these connections. The approaches in biodynamics fill a huge gap left by agricultural science, which unfortunately does not work independently of industry.

What was important to you when selecting the wineries for your book?

I wanted to show a wide variety of business formats. Small and very large wineries with sites that have been famous for centuries and some that produce wines somewhere in the outback. I wanted to show a wide variety of grape varieties and wine styles.

Do you already have a new book project in the pipeline?

I have plenty of ideas - I just don't have the time.

Given your expertise, we simply have to ask: what is your favourite type of wine to drink in your private life?

That changes all the time. I really like sparkling wines - from champagne to sparkling wine to Trento DOC. Then I love red wines. I love Bordeaux. I go crazy for Pauillac. I really like California. Then I adore port wine. Of course I like to drink German Riesling, occasionally something from Burgundy, I'm the biggest fan of Silvaner, so I could go on for a few more pages.

As a Master of Wine, you've already tasted pretty much everything. Do you still have a wine on your bucket list?

The very first Liebfraumilch ever produced. Invented by the Jewish wine merchant family Sichel in Mainz. The first Liebfraumilch was produced in 1921 - the best vintage of the century. Launched on the market with the slogan ‘A wine that goes with any dish.’ Back then, it sold for more than Château Margaux and the like. That would interest me.

What was actually the best food-wine pairing you've enjoyed so far?

A sweet Riesling from the 1911 vintage with Gillardeau oysters - they're the best oysters for me anyway. They are the size of a cutlet and taste so balanced and delicate. This was at a tasting at the Vendôme restaurant, which I had the honour of accompanying as a sommelier. The oysters brought the morbid wine to life - it was an incredible interaction.

And last but not least: Do you have another wine bar recommendation for us?

My children are 3 and 5 years old - unfortunately I can't get out the door at the moment - you'd have to ask someone else.

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