Anselme Selosse: The terroir artist of the Côte des Blancs

Anselme Selosse: The terroir artist of the Côte des Blancs

Anselme Selosse is considered one of the most influential and innovative winemakers in the French region of Champagne. Since taking over the family business, Champagne Jacques Selosse, in 1980, he has revolutionised champagne production and set new standards in terms of quality and terroir expression.With his son Guillaume at his side since 2012, the next generation is now in the starting blocks.

Let's take a closer look at the achievements of Anselme Selosse and the visions that his son Guillaume Selosse is realising with his own champagne creations.

Anselme Selosse's career and achievements

Anselme Selosse took over the family business, which includes 8 hectares of vineyards, mainly in Avize, Cramant, Oger, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and Ambonnay, from his father Jacques with the vision of fundamentally changing the way champagne is made. In the 1970s, when most Champagne houses were prioritising quantity over quality, Selosse began to focus on producing high-quality grapes.

Selosse's revolutionary approach was based on six key principles:

  • Focus on terroir: Anselme Selosse recognised the importance of terroir for the quality of Champagne. He focused on expressing the unique characteristics of each plot in his wines.
  • Organic viticulture: Selosse was one of the first winemakers in the region to embrace organic farming methods. He drastically reduced the use of chemicals and encouraged natural biodiversity in his vineyards.
  • Low yields: Contrary to the practice in Champagne at the time, Anselme Selosse deliberately limited his yields to increase the quality of the grapes.
  • Minimal intervention in the cellar: Selosse believes that the character of the wine is already present in the grape. Therefore, he relies on minimal intervention in the winemaking process to preserve the purity of the terroir expression.
  • Use of wooden barrels: Contrary to common practice in Champagne, Anselme Selosse introduced the use of wooden barrels for winemaking, which adds to the complexity of his wines.
  • Avoiding malolactic fermentation: Selosse deliberately avoids malolactic fermentation in order to preserve the natural acidity and freshness of his wines.

These approaches were groundbreaking in the 1980s and have since had a lasting influence on champagne production. Anselme Selosse inspired a whole generation of young winemakers in the region who adopted his quality-oriented approach.

Grand Cru champagnes from Jacques Selosse

Thanks to his six basic principles, champagnes have since been produced under the aegis of Anselme Selosse that impress with a great deal uniqueness and even more character. This is particularly evident in the Grands Crus, of which we will present four examples in more detail, which clearly highlight the differences.

The grand cru champagnes of Jacques Selosse are:

  • Chemin de Chalon: This single-vineyard champagne comes from the Grand Cru village of Avize. The vines grow in a chalky soil that gives the wine a pronounced minerality. Chemin de Chalon is characterised by its precision and elegance, with notes of citrus fruits, white flowers and a subtle chalkiness.
  • Sous le Mont: A remarkable champagne as it is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes from Mareuil-sur-Aÿ. This sparkling wine showcases Selosse's mastery of working with red grapes. It offers a complex aromatic palette of red fruits, spices and a subtle smokiness, underpinned by a vibrant acidity.
  • La Côte Faron: This champagne comes from the Grand Cru village of Aÿ, which is best known for Pinot Noir. La Côte Faron is a powerful and structured sparkling wine that reflects the strength of the Aÿ terroir. It has aromas of ripe red fruits, spices and a mineral note reminiscent of damp stone.
  • Le Bout du Clos. A single-vineyard champagne from Ambonnay, another renowned Grand Cru village for Pinot Noir. This sparkling wine combines power and finesse and offers a complex palette of aromas of dark fruits, spices and subtle toasting, underpinned by a vibrant acidity.

Substance and the Solera method

In addition to the Grands Crus, Anselme Selosse has caused a worldwide sensation with his champagne Substance. This Blanc de Blancs is produced according to a unique solera system that Anselme Selosse introduced in 1986.

The Solera method, which originated in sherry production, makes it possible to blend wines from different vintages while maintaining consistent quality and style. For Substance, reserve wines from about 20 different vintages are used.

The process works as follows:

  • Each year, a portion of the youngest wine is taken and bottled.
  • The resulting gap is filled with wine from the next oldest barrel.
  • This process continues through all the barrels, up to the oldest barrel.
  • The oldest barrel is then refilled with the new vintage.

This system offers several advantages:

  • It evens out the differences between vintages and ensures consistent quality.
  • It allows for complex flavour development by blending different ages.
  • It preserves the essence of the Avize terroir over many years.

Substance is a champagne of exceptional complexity and depth. It combines the freshness of younger wines with the maturity and complexity of older vintages. The result is a champagne with an impressive range of flavours, from fresh citrus fruits to ripe apples, as well as notes of brioche, nuts and pronounced minerality.

Guillaume Selosse: the next generation

Guillaume Selosse, Anselme's son, has been actively involved in the family business since 2012. His arrival marks the beginning of a new era for Champagne Jacques Selosse, with Guillaume continuing his father's philosophy while developing his own style. This is particularly evident in his first two champagne creations. So let's take a closer look at both.

The champagnes of Guillaume Selosse are:

  • Au Dessus du Gros Mon. This champagne is an example of Guillaume's own style. It comes from a single vineyard in Ambonnay and is made from Pinot Noir grapes. Au Dessus du Gros Mont is characterised by its precision and elegance, with a perfect balance between fruit and minerality. The wine shows aromas of red berries, citrus fruits and subtle spice, underpinned by a vibrant acidity.
  • Largillier. Another remarkable champagne from Guillaume Selosse. It comes from a single vineyard in Vertus, a premier cru village in the southern Côte des Blancs. This Blanc de Blancs showcases Guillaume's talent in working with Chardonnay. The wine offers a complex aromatic palette of citrus fruits, white flowers and a pronounced minerality reminiscent of damp limestone.

Guillaume's style is characterised by a continuation of his father's terroir-oriented philosophy, coupled with an even more precise and focused approach. His champagnes often display greater accessibility in their youth, without sacrificing ageing potential. Guillaume also places even more emphasis on the purity of the fruit expression and the precision of the minerality.

Champagne Jacques Selosse? Worth it!

To summarise, the story of Champagne Jacques Selosse is one of innovation, respect for the terroir and a tireless pursuit of quality. Anselme Selosse has not only revolutionised his own family winery, but has also influenced the entire Champagne region. His philosophy, based on organic viticulture, low yields and minimal intervention in the cellar, has inspired a new generation of winemakers. The Grand Cru Champagnes from Anselme Selosse, as well as the Substance, are an expression of this philosophy. Each sparkling wine reflects its terroir in a unique way and offers a complexity and depth that is unrivalled in Champagne.

With Guillaume Selosse, the next generation is now coming to the fore. He continues his father's legacy, but also brings his own style, which is characterised by even greater precision and focus. Champagnes such as Au Dessus du Gros Mont and Largillier show that Jacques Selosse's future is in good hands. Champagne Jacques Selosse remains at the forefront of the quality movement in Champagne, continuing to set the standard for terroir-driven, artisan-made Champagnes of the highest quality.

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