Let's be honest: for curious wine lovers who want to delve deeper into the subject, the German wine law is anything but a walk in the park. It starts with the labelling jungle. Kabinett, Auslese and Spätlese – all sound like good words. But what do they mean? What is the difference between a quality wine and a special quality wine?
It is high time we brought some order to this tangle of terms!
Since 2009, German wine, if it comes from Pflaz, Rheingau or any other wine region, has officially been divided into three categories. At the bottom of the hierarchy is the wine that was once known as a simple table wine until 2009. Neither the grape variety, nor the vintage, nor the region where the grapes come from can be found on the label. The designation ‘German wine’ is perfectly sufficient.
The second level is the Landwein, which then already has a protected geographical indication (PGI). The grape juice therefore comes from a clearly defined wine-growing region. Vintage information is mandatory here. What follows is the quality wine. This then has a protected designation of origin (PDO). What does that mean? Well, the grapes come from a clearly defined wine-growing region. If a place is on the label, the grapes come only from here. The same applies to a single-vineyard wine. Most importantly, however, the wine has successfully passed the so-called quality wine test. In other words, it has to be free of defects. Then it gets a test number and is allowed to be sold as a quality wine. But how do the Prädikat wines fit into this system?
Not at all! Because the Prädikatsweine are outside of this system, on a par with the quality wines. The difference: Prädikatsweine are defined by the must weight of the grapes shortly before harvesting. In other words, how much sugar is in a grape like that. The sugar concentration is determined in degrees Oechsle. The name comes from Christian Ferdinand Oechsle (1744 to 1852), who developed this method.
Until 1971, there was no distinction between quality and Prädikat wines. But then the German wine law was reformed. At that time, the Prädikat wines were placed on top, so to speak, as the crowning glory of quality. However, the Prädikat wines were then separated out and a binding and independent system was developed for them, which is based on the Oechsle scale.
The quality pyramid of Prädikat wines officially has six levels. From the bottom to the top, these are:
And then it gets complicated right away. This is because each German wine region regulates individually which grapes are permitted for which Prädikat wine. The same applies to the levels of maturation or the maximum alcohol content. This is another reason why a Riesling Auslese from the Mosel can taste quite different from one from the Palatinate. Well, here the terroir plays the decisive role. But the different conditions also have a significant influence. Nevertheless, there are requirements that are identical in every wine region. Let's take a closer look at these.
At the base of the Prädikat wines is the Kabinett, which connoisseurs also like to affectionately call Kabi. And actually, basis is not the right word here either, because Kabis are highly valued worldwide. Especially the ones from the Moselle, which delight with a brilliant interplay of sweetness and acidity on the palate. The grapes for a Kabinett must have a minimum must weight of 70 degrees Oechsle. Riesling is the preferred grape variety. However, Silvaner, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris and many other grape varieties are equally suitable.
A Kabinett does not necessarily have to be vinified dry. It can also be very charming as a medium-dry or off-dry wine. The low alcohol content of eight or nine percent by volume is also convincing here, making a medium-dry Kabi a real pleasure to drink. When vinified dry, a Kabinett can have as much as 12 percent by volume of alcohol. Incidentally, such wines are very good food companions for a wide variety of dishes.
The minimum must weight required for a late harvest is 76 degrees Oechsle. As the term suggests, the grapes for this predicate wine are harvested later than for the main harvest. Some of the berries may already be affected by botrytis (noble rot), as this phase of autumn often involves morning fog, while the sun shines on the vines from midday onwards. These are ideal conditions for botrytis!
Thanks to the juxtaposition of healthy and botrytis grapes in a late harvest, it tastes even more intense and ripe than a Kabinett. These predicate wines also have more body and alcohol. Riesling is the preferred grape for a German late harvest, but many other grape varieties can be used. Even a Pinot Noir late harvest is quite common.
When a winemaker wants to make a selection, the grapes must have a must weight of at least 83 degrees Oechsle. That's quite a lot of residual sugar! To achieve this high level, manual labour is therefore required. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand. However, before they end up in the harvesting basket, the harvesters take a very close look at the grapes in the bunch. If there are any unripe or damaged berries, they are removed individually. They are therefore selected. Which also explains where the term ‘selection’ comes from.
Incidentally, botrytis berries are expressly desired for a selection. They provide even more depth and complexity in the finished wine. Added to this is the sophisticated interplay of sweetness and acidity – delicious! Winemakers are very happy to produce their selections as semi-dry or sweet wines. This makes them an ideal companion for fruity desserts or very mature cheeses. But they also ideally soften the sharpness of a fiery curry or Thai dish!
While individual berries are carefully selected from a grape for the Auslese, the exact opposite happens for the Beerenauslese (BA for short). In other words, the winemakers do not use the whole grape here, but only individual grapes. This means that manual labour is also required here. In this case, preference is given to berries that have been infected with botrytis. And for good reason. This is because a minimum must weight of 110 degrees Oechsle is required for the Beerenauslese wine. This value could not be achieved with healthy grapes alone. The quantity of botrytis berries must therefore be considerable.
Selecting each berry individually is a very, very laborious task. But it is also a task that is worth the effort. The result is a predicate wine that nestles against the palate as an explosion of flavour. Due to the high residual sugar, a Beerenauslese is only ever made as a sweet wine. Riesling is the preferred grape variety, but all other grape varieties that have a thin berry skin can also be used. This allows the botrytis fungus to penetrate better and to implant its enzymes, which then ensure the seductive honey nuances.
When botrytis affects a grape to such an extent that all the berries appear shrivelled and dried out, the majestic time of Trockenbeerenauslese (literally ‘dry berry selection’) has come. For this special wine, 150 degrees Oechsle is the obligatory minimum must weight. However, many TBAs exceed this value many times over.
With Trockenbeerenauslese, we have arrived at the pinnacle of predicate wines. Candied fruits, honey and raisins dominate the nose and palate. When fully matured, these aromas become even more intense and complex. Added to this is a fantastically balanced interplay of sweetness and acidity.
A Trockenbeerenauslese can take an eternity to mature, for example the TBA's from Joh.Jos.Prum. Twenty, thirty or more years are not uncommon. However, TBAs are very rare. This is because the conditions for the grapes and the botrytis fungus must be absolutely perfect. In addition, an enormous amount of manual labour is required. Both factors together make a Trockenbeerenauslese a rarity – and expensive. But it is more than worth it.
Since 1982, ice wine has actually been on a par with Auslese among Prädikat wines. Because here only a minimum must weight of 110 degrees Oechsle is required. At least in theory. In practice, this value is exceeded by far! To make an ice wine, winemakers leave a certain number of grapes hanging on the vine well into the winter. As soon as the temperature drops to at least -7 degrees Celsius at night, the frozen grapes are harvested and pressed immediately while still frozen. This concentrates the aromas and sugars to such an extent that a nectar fit for the gods can be fermented.
What makes it special: Botrytis has no place in an ice wine. Only completely healthy berries that have not been affected by the noble rot may be used. An ice wine can be as sweet as a Trockenbeerenauslese, but tastes completely different because of the complete absence of botrytis. Here, the purity of the grape variety is the main focus. Ice wines are a real rarity in the German system of Prädikat wines, like the ice wines from Egon Muller. Because a lot can happen before a grape freezes. It can become mouldy on the vine due to too much rain or be eaten by animals. It also happens that even in February of the following year, it is still not cold enough in the region. The grapes do not freeze accordingly. It is therefore a very high risk for a winemaker to make an ice wine. But when it works, the winemaker can offer a speciality wine that is so complex and pure that no one who has tasted it will ever forget it.
