2023 was by no means a smooth season. Spring rains, uneven ripening, intense summer heat and, in September, hail struck the region. The Indian summer that followed the storms saved the day. It was precisely this summer that imparted the ripeness and balance necessary for top-tier wines.
Look forward tothis Grüner Veltliner, a wine built more for the wine cellar than for a cooling shelf, with its rich, mature character and substantial body. It is best enjoyed between 2028 and 2055.
James Suckling (97)
Expressive and fragrant, showing aromas of star fruit, yellow plums, flint, raw hazelnuts, wild herbs and some seaweed and aniseed. It’s full-bodied, layered and so complex, a serious expression of this grape, with ripe yellow fruit and subtle smokiness. Gentle toasty firmness, just enough for guidance. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.
Jancis Robinson (17.5)
Kammern. South-eastern slope at the foot of the Heiligenstein and one of the hottest sites in the Kamptal. The soil is calcareous and consists of loamy-sandy silt that has formed on loess. Natural cork closure. Certified sustainable and organic.
Intense aroma, highly expressive. Herbal, light note of cedar, smoky reduction (in a good way). Even with all these layers, there's fruit at the core. Deep citrus and yellow fruits. Moreish and long. A distinctive style. Julia Harding MW
Falstaff (98)
Light yellow green, silver-coloured reflections. Nuances of herbal savouriness, fresh apple touch, some papaya, pineapple, honeydew melon, lime zest, lively, multi-faceted bouquet, salty-mineral touch. Full-bodied, tightly woven, multi-layered, ripe apple notes, remains very persistent, finesse-rich, integrated acidity, hints of white pear fruit in the aftertaste, great future with certain ageing potential.
