Professional reviews
Robert Parker (99)
The NV Rare Aged Tawny 50 Years is a spectacular wine, utterly immune from hyperbole. It manages sleek restraint, with earth shattering power and length, and it has a palate that is fine and structured yet pure and unctuous. To the flavors: there is dark chocolate-coated mejool dates, clove, star anise, nutmeg, some aniseed and autumn leaves, blood orange, coffee grounds and forest moss. The acidity is measured in fine strands, and the length of flavor seamlessly flows into the next sip, regardless of the pause. This is astonishing detail and capacity for kaleidoscopic complexity. Wow, in a word. 330 bottles made each year. 19.5% alcohol.
Winespectator (98)
A new addition that sits very much in the collectible section of the Penfolds range, just 330 500ml bottles are slated for release in a rolling annual series. The Penfolds prowess in the Tawny genre is well-established by Grandfather and Great Grandfather and this is a blend that links through both these wines. Some component of the glass stored 1915 are in the blend, the founding component of Grandfather, as are components from 1940 and 1945. The depth, freshness, complexity and purity all combine here to spellbinding effect, layers of rancio and gently caramelized toasted nuts give way to hints of raisins, burnt toffee and toasted spiced bread. The palate is incredibly focused and is brightly lit with crystalline acid presence. The sweetness is soulfully balanced, flavours of dried plums, vanilla, dark grilled nuts and mocha linger seemingly endless. Profound.
Decanter (99)
While Shiraz, Grenache, Mataro and Cabernet make up the blend of this magical wine, they have now melted into a complete marvel. The winery notes that it is made up of 'significant vintages spanning 98 years' that were 'set aside' for their endurance and beauty. These precious fortified wines aged for an average of 50 years and are now something of an essence, not only of Penfolds' ethos and founding idea, but also of a country. Now dark amber in colour, the nose is all sticky, gooey caramel sponge with orange marmalade and a most alluring pine resin lift. The palate continues in this spicy, orange marmalade vein, adding roasted cashew richness and unplumbed umami depths. What a wine. This is what history tastes like. Just 330 bottles of this were released and every drop traces a delicious depth of fruit, spice and time.
BOW (9.25)
