Loibenberg is one of the Wachau's steep, terraced vineyards, and this dry Riesling, produced at F.X. Pichler, shows what this vineyard does in 2023. It features aromas of ripe yellow orchard fruits and citrus, spicy nuances, and a stony thread running the length of the palate. It is robust and lively, with a long, refreshing finish.
The 2023 season began late, and due to cool, rainy spring weather that provided ample moisture through the flowering period, budbreak occurred later than expected. Harvesting began in the second week of September and continued for four weeks.
Pichler uses the skin-maceration method. The grapes were organically grown, and this wine is vegan.
Let it breathe in a decanter for about an hour, and it is already approachable now. It will be at its best through 2042.
James Suckling (99)
Extremely deep and complex with a wonderful tension between the ripe Mandarin oranges, tobacco leaves and spicy aromas, plus giant crushed-rock minerality. Despite the cornucopia of yellow fruit, this is only 12.5% alcohol, giving the finish a wind-blown quality that defies your expectations of a very warm vineyard site. From organically grown grapes. Vegan. Drink or hold.
Vinous (97)
The 2023 Riesling Loibenberg is picked in the upper half of the Loibenberg and opens with a spicy tone of lichen on warm stone with overtones of red-cheeked yellow plum. The palate brings all these aromas and settles them on uncompromising stoniness. Concentration, citric verve and bundled power unite. All this energy will need some time to calm down, but this will last a long distance. (Bone-dry)
Lucas Pichler remembered a “cool, rainy spring with sufficient rain until flowering.” It was still cool during flowering, but the summer was “hot and dry,” while rain at the end of August relieved some dry stress. Harvest started in the second week of September and only took four weeks “under blue skies and sunshine.” Pichler said he remembers most how “late budburst was” and “that we barely had to sort.” He avoids botrytis, even overripeness, and wants to harvest when the grapes are ripe to favor site expression, but he works with skin contact. As of this 2023 vintage, the wines are certified organic, which is not yet stated on the labels. As always: stainless steel wines are sealed with screw caps and oak-made wines with cork.
