Kellerberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2023 F.X. Pichler

Professional reviews

James Suckling (99)

Almost overwhelming on the nose, the power is totally underplayed on the medium- to full-bodied palate. Cool and delicate, racy and refined, this is extremely expressive and subtle with an incredibly firm, mineral core. The crushed-rock character in the near-endless finish makes this stand head and shoulders above so many top gruners. Vegan. Drink or hold.

Vinous (97)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg is in the warmer and lower reaches of the Kellerberg, as the higher parcels are reserved for Riesling. This shines with ripe, green pear juiciness and an edge of ivy and yeasty salt. The palate majors on savory concentration. Pepper, creaminess, crushed chervil and sage add their fragrant chlorophyll to the fluidity and smoothness of the mid-palate, while the finish makes the mouth water much more than the mid-palate suggests. (Bone-dry)